Kwa akatswiri ambiri a mbiri yakale, mafano aakulu a thirties ndi mpikisano pakati pa Elsa Schiaparelli ndi Coco Chanel. Kulimbana kotereku kwa akatswiri aŵiri m'mapangidwe a mafashoni kwagwidwa ndikugwirabe maganizo a anthu ambiri.
Ngakhale kuti akazi onsewa anali otsutsana, iwo anali ogwirizana ndi luso lapadera komanso chikhumbo chobwezeretsa mafashoni atsopano. Kodi mpikisano wa opanga awa ndi chiyani, chifukwa chake chinali chiyani, monga momwe anafotokozera?
Elsa anali wothandizira mwamphamvu za kugonjera, ndipo Koko anasankha zachikhalidwe. Schiaparelli anayesera kutsindika zayekha payekha, mphamvu ya mzimu. Chanel anatsindika ubwino wa thupi. Mitundu ya Gabriel inali yosiyana ndi kalembedwe ka nsalu, nsaluzo zinasankhidwa ndi zida zofewa, zochepa. Zitsanzo za Elsa zili zolimbikitsa, zopangidwa ndi zinthu zamtengo wapatali, pogwiritsa ntchito zokongoletsera zochititsa manyazi. Pamene Chanel adayambitsa suti yapamwamba yokhala ndi zibokosi za golidi, Schiaparelli anapereka zovala za sari, appliqués ngati nyama, mabatani-ndalama, nduwira za tizilombo tositiki. Chiyambicho chinali chosiyana. Elsa Schiaparelli anali wa anthu olemekezeka, mzungulizano wake unkakhala wolemekezeka wa France. Koko anali wosungira banja losavuta, ndipo pakhomo la anthu apamwamba adalamulidwa.
Kusiyanitsa pakati pa Elsa Schiaparelli ndi Coco Chanel chifukwa cha udindo wa wojambula mafashoni sizinali nthawi zonse mu mafashoni. Tengani vuto ili, osachepera. Panthawi imodzi yolandira, Gabrielle, mwachifundo, adamupatsa Elsa mpando umene unali utangojambulapo. Pa nthawi imodzimodziyo, Koko adanena kuti izo zingapindule ndi mkangano wowala, ngakhale wotsutsana. Schiaparelli sanakhalebe ngongole. Kawirikawiri, anawonetsa maganizo ake pa chithunzi cha Chanel pazinthu zatsopano.
Olemba mafashoni nthawi zonse ankakondana kuchokera ku mafano ndi makasitomala. Kotero kuchokera ku Koko kupita ku Elze, Jason Fellows ndi Gala Dali anathamanga. Ndiponso amayi awa adayika malamulo awo m'malo omwewo. Gabrielle anaitana Elsa "wojambula amene amapanga madiresi." Koma sizinaime kuti akoke maganizo a "ojambula" pa ntchito yake. M'masonkhanidwe a Chanel, mitundu yosaoneka bwino ya munthu uyu wosungidwa adawonekera.
N'zovuta kudziwa kuti ndani amene wapambana mpikisano umenewu. Ndipotu, n'zosatheka kudziwa kuchuluka kwa mphamvu zomwe zidawoneka bwino za umunthu wodabwitsazi. Koma chinthu chimodzi chotsimikizika, mu thirties wotchuka kwambiri anali Elsa Schiaparelli. Zovala zake zinali zovomerezeka ndi osewera ku Hollywood. Icho chinali chifaniziro chake chachikazi chomwe chinalowa m'malo mwa zaka makumi awiri. Koma Coco inakhala yofanana kwambiri ndi nthawiyo. Els angathenso kutchedwa wolota wake ndi wojambula.
Koma potsirizira pake, mpikisano pakati pa Elsa Schiaparelli ndi Coco Chanel watha kuyanjanitsa. Elsa anangochokapo bwino. Atapanga chigawo chotsiriza, Schiaparelli anakwatira ndipo mokweza "adasiya mpikisano" poyamba. Chidwi chachikulu cha chisokonezo chinatha. Anabwera nthawi zatsopano, zosangalatsa zatsopano. Ndipo pamodzi ndi iwo, ndi amphamvu atsopano: Christian Dior, Coco Chanel. Ndi Christian Dior yomwe imatchedwa chifukwa cha kuchoka kwa Elsa. Malingaliro ake atsopano anakankhira adani onse awiri kumbuyo. Ndipo Schiaparelli ndi Shangel anakakamizika kugulitsa nyumba zawo za mafashoni.
Koma kuchoka kwa Elsa sikunatanthauzire kusadziŵa. Zojambula zake zinakhalabe m'mbiri ya mafashoni. Zitsanzo zake zinalimbikitsa olemba mafashoni ambiri: Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Biba, Franco Moschino. Zinthu zopangidwa ndi Schiaparelli zinali patsogolo pa nthawi yawo. Zolengedwa zake zinali zapamwamba m'ma thirties, m'ma makumi asanu, ziri zothandiza lero.
Coco Chanel anakwanitsa kupanga revolution m'maganizo a mamilioni. Anamasula akazi ku corsets, kuwapatsa akazi akuda, osapanga chizindikiro cha kulira, koma chizindikiro cha kukongola, kudula tsitsi, kuwapatsa mpumulo.
Amene anapambana pa mpikisano wa Elsa Schiaparelli kapena Coco Chanel - ndizosatheka kunena. Koma Coco yekha analowa m'nkhaniyi, ndipo Elsa anali osayiwalika.