Mafilimu - dona ndi mphepo, yosintha. Masiku ano, mafashoni akhoza kusintha kwambiri nyengo iliyonse. Koma mzaka za m'ma 19-20 za nsapato zinali zotani. Kodi ndi nsapato ziti zomwe zinkavala, zomwe zinali zenizeni?
Kumapeto kwa zaka za zana la 18, kusintha kunayambika ku France. Izo sizinakhudze zandale zokhazokha mu dzikoli komanso ku Ulaya konse, komanso zinakhudza nsapato. Kotero pansi pa chiletsocho anali zidendene zake. Akazi sanawasambe kwa zaka zoposa makumi asanu. Nsapato zazimayi za nyengo ya Napoleonic pakuwoneka kwawo zikufanana ndi osewera othamanga lero. Panthawi imeneyo, lingaliro losavuta njira ya moyo linakhazikika kulikonse. Zosavuta izi zimakhudza chirichonse: moyo, maonekedwe a dziko, miyambo, zovala ndi nsapato. Ofilosofi ambiri, madokotala ndi anthu okhwima chabe adalankhula za kuvulazidwa kwa corsets, nsapato ndi zidendene zapamwamba ndi nsapato zochepa kwambiri. Ndipo anamvetsera kwa iwo. Akazi a ku Paris a mafashoni anayamba kudzipangira tsitsi, kuvala madiresi ovala ndi kuvala nsapato zokongola pamalo okhaokha. Koma Napoleon Bonaparte sanavomereze izi zatsopano. Ndipo madiresi omwe ali ndi makina osokoneza bongo ndi kukopa corsets adabwerera ku mafashoni kachiwiri. Koma iwo anasiya nsapato ndi zidendene zapamwamba. Amayi ndi amuna onse ankavala nsapato zopangidwa ndi silika, velvet kapena chikopa chofewa.
Nthaŵi yotsatira ya Chidziwitso sichidasiya nsapato pambali. Pakatikatikati mwa zaka za m'ma 1800, nsapato za silika zofewa zinalowetsedwa ndi nsapato zapamwamba zopangidwa ndi chikopa chofewa. Fomuyo imakhala yolimba kwambiri, yolimba. Mitundu yowonjezereka ikuwonekera pa maulendo kapena masikiti. Zina mwa nsapato zotchuka kwambiri za nthawi imeneyo, mukhoza kutchula hafu-boti pa galasi. Nsapato zotsikazo zokongoletsedwa ndi ubweya.
Mafilimu a m'zaka za zana la 20 adapanga nsapato. Tsopano nsapato zimatsindika ndondomeko ya phazi. Mitundu yopangira maselo imapangidwa. Zaka makumi awiri zapitazo, nsapato zinali zotchuka kwambiri. Pambuyo pa Nkhondo Yachiwiri Yadziko Lonse, pazifukwa za kuchepa kwakukulu, opanga nsapato amayesa zipangizo zosiyanasiyana. Kuwala kumawoneka zitsanzo za nsalu, mphira, kumva, polyethylene komanso ngakhale kapron. Osati ophwanyaphwanya okha, koma ojambula ojambula ndi ojambula adayamba kugwira ntchito popanga nsapato. Koma, ziribe kanthu, nsapato zidakhalabe chizindikiro cha chikhalidwe cha anthu. Choncho anthu olemekezeka ankavala nsapato zowongoka kwambiri ndi chidendene komanso chopondaponda.
Mitundu yonse ya zipangizo zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga nsapato: satin, silika, chikopa, suede. Nsapato zimapangidwa pa mabatani, pazinyalala, pa matepi, zikopa kapena popanda tizilombo. Amuna ambiri amavala nsapato kapena shatets. Mu maphunzirowo munali boti theka.
Ku Russia zinthu zinali zosiyana kwambiri ndi ku Ulaya. Omwe amafuula ku Russia, omwe anagwira ntchito kumayambiriro kwa zaka makumi awiri ndi awiri, otchedwa pamwamba. Dzina lotchulidwira lomwe adalandira chifukwa chakuti misonkhano yawo inali yaying'ono kwambiri komanso yopewedwera ndi anthu. Masters ankagwira ntchito ngati mimbulu imodzi - choncho dzina. Ambiri ogulitsa nsapato anali mu Marina Grove. Kuno, mafashoni anangoyendayenda kuchokera ku Russia konse, komanso ochokera kunja.
Kawirikawiri, zaka za m'ma 1900 zakhala zowonjezera zatsopano, kuphatikizapo nsapato. Kwazaka mazana asanu apitayi, zitsanzo zambiri ndi mawonekedwe a nsapato zidapangidwa, monga makolo athu sanatchulepo nthawi zonse. Zamakono zamakono ndi zipangizo zakhala zosavuta kupanga kupanga nsapato. Zochita zake zawonjezeka. Lero, kutchuka kwa mtundu wa nsapato yatsopanoyi ndi pafupi masabata asanu ndi anayi. Mabwana amakono a kupanga nsapato sizongoganiziridwa ndi chirichonse. Kotero, iwo akhoza kuzindikira lingaliro lirilonse, lingaliro lirilonse.
Izi ndi zofanana ndi zaka za 19-20 za nsapato. Izi ndizochepa zochepa mu mbiri ya nsapato. Kawirikawiri, pafupifupi mtundu uliwonse, nsapato iliyonse imakhala ndi yaying'ono, ndipo mwinamwake nkhani yabwino. Mafilimu amasintha nthawi zonse ndipo sadziwika zomwe zidzachitike m'maganizo kwa opanga, ndi zomwe tidzakhala kuvala zaka zingapo.