Kufufuza mofanana ndi ma thirties

Zaka makumi atatu zapitazi zidazindikiritsidwa ndi ulamuliro wa kudandaula. Zochitika zamakono izi zagwidwa ndi anthu ambiri otchuka: Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, André Breton. Malingaliro a malangizo awa anali okhutira kuchotsa mizere pakati pa zenizeni ndi maloto, chikhumbo cha chirichonse chosagwirizana, kutsutsana ndi maganizo a anthu, opanda nzeru. Kusanthula kunapezeka mu mabuku, cinema, kupenta. Osati gawo laling'ono lomwe linayesedwa ndi kugonjera mowirikiza mwa mafano atatu.

Mtsogoleri wa dziko la Italy Elsa Schiaparelli ndiye adayambitsa chisokonezo chofanana ndi chachitatu chazaka zapitazo. Ndizomvetsa chisoni, koma dzina lake silinayiwalike. Kutchulidwa kwa umunthu wowala ndi wapachiyambi ukupangidwira kokha pa dzina la Coco Chanel. Ngakhale akatswiri amakono amanena kuti kuthandizira kupanga mafashoni kuchokera kwa Schiaparelli ndiwopambana kwambiri kuposa Chanel. Ndipo m'zaka zitatu zapitazi panalibenso zachilendo komanso zooneka bwino zojambula.

Kwa nthawi yoyamba Elsa adalengeza yekha kumapeto kwa makumi awiri. Ntchito yonse ya mtsikanayo inali yachilendo, si yachilendo, ndipo ambiri anadabwa kwambiri ndi anthu. M'nyamata yake yoyambirira, msungwanayo anagwiritsa ntchito zolemba za African, maganizo a Cubist ojambula, ndi zithunzi za zojambula za oyendetsa. Pa zithunzithunzi za mlengiyo panali zowakomera, angwe, njoka, zokongoletsera zachilendo. Anali Elsa yemwe adawonetsa dziko lapansi "nsomba". Schiaparelli nthawi yomweyo anayamba kufotokoza malingaliro ake, zosangalatsa zomwe zinamugwira iye m'moyo weniweni. Mwachitsanzo, atatengedwa ndi ndege, kuwala kunawona chosonkhanitsa chomwe chinakhala maziko a kalembedwe ka "woyendetsa ndege". Elsa sanalenge zinthu zopusa, ndipo izi zinali zosiyana ndi ena opanga mafashoni a nthawiyo. Ndi iye yemwe anabwera ndi nsomba yogawidwa, yogawanika, yomwe inakhala chithunzi cha akabudula amakono. Mmalo mwa zodzikongoletsera, Elsa analangiza kugwiritsa ntchito zibangili. Ngakhale zolengedwa za Schiaparelli komanso zinachititsa mantha, koma anali ndi zosowa zambiri kuposa kale lonse.

Chifukwa cha kupambana kwa mavalidwe a madzulo, a ku Italy adatha kutsegulira yekha m'mapiri a Paris. Zovala za Schiaparelli zimakhala bwino. Makamaka pakufunidwa chinali chovala chojambulidwa ndi chofiira chakuda, chophatikizidwa ndi nsalu, kuponyedwa pa phewa lake kumbuyo kwake ndi jekete yoyera la chipale chofewa.

Nyenyezi zambiri za zisudzo ndi cinema za thirties zimakonda zovala kuchokera kwa Elsa Schiaparelli. Marlene Dietrich, Joan Crawford, Greta Garbo adalamula zovala zake, komanso osati zovala zokhazokha, komanso amavala zovala za tsiku ndi tsiku. Ndili ndi Elsa, mgwirizano wa chaka chimodzi unasaina zovala zogulira mafilimu a Hollywood. Ndipo ndi mdani wamuyaya wa Schiaparelli - Coco Chanel mgwirizano umenewu unatha kwa chaka chimodzi. Wopereka chithandizo chabwino kwambiri wa wopanga mafashoni wa ku Italy anali Mae West. Mkazi uyu anali chizindikiro cha kugonana cha makumi atatu. Chikhalidwe chake chodziimira molimba mtima, khalidwe lachidziwitso ndi moyo wapagulu linapanga malonda abwino kwa taluso ya Elsa. Ambiri a ku West West amavala zovala zokha ku Schiaparelli. Ndipo pofuna kuti asawononge nthawi zonse, adapereka zolinga izi pojambulapo pa Venus de Milo. Ichi chinali chida chogwiritsira ntchito Elsa kwa botolo pamene adalenga mizimu yake yodabwitsa.

Kufufuza mofanana ndi ma thirties kufika pachimake. Panthawiyi, Schiaparelli anali atayamba kale kusokoneza malingaliro ake ndi zozizwitsa, zozizwitsa ndi zozizwitsa ... zogwiritsidwa ntchito pazinthu zogwiritsa ntchito popanga zovala. Ndipo Elsa analumikizana mosamalitsa ndipo anathandizana ndi akatswiri odziwika bwino a zachipembedzo Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, André Breton, Pablo Picasso.

Zolengedwazo sizinangokhala mafashoni, zovala, koma zenizeni zenizeni. Chitsanzo ndi chovala chomwe chinkawoneka ngati chinayikidwa kumbuyo, zovala ndi zojambula - X-ray, diresi ndi kutsanzira zipewa zowang'ambika, zipewa, zofiira ndi nkhani za nyuzipepala za Elsa mwiniwake. Nanga zotengerazo zimapangidwa bwanji kwa iye: chofiira chokhala ngati mapiritsi onyamulira, magolovesi okhala ndi zilembo zazitali ... Wopanga opanga amapereka mitundu yosazolowereka ya mitundu, chifukwa ankakonda kwambiri mitundu yowala. Nthawi zambiri pali mitundu yomwe imaphatikizapo mitundu yofiirira, azitona ndi zofiira. Anapereka kuvala chovala chakuda ndi nsalu zofiira. Chovala cha mtundu wamtambo wamtunduwu wokhala ndi burgundy braid. Ndipo zobiriwira zimajambula pinki.

Kunena za kukondweretsedwa mwachulukidwe mwa zaka zitatu, timatanthauza Elsa Schiaparelli.