Mbiri ya ufa

Ngakhale kuti mawu akuti "ufa" anabwera kwa ife mu Chirasha kuchokera ku Chijeremani, pachiyambi chake adakali ochokera ku French. Mbiri ya maonekedwe a ufa imatenga zaka zikwi zingapo.

Woyamba kugwiritsa ntchito ufa anali anthu a ku Aigupto wakale. Kale, kwa Aigupto, kunali kofunika kwambiri kupatulira anthu molingana ndi khungu lawo pazowoneka bwino. Pambuyo pake, kwa zaka zambiri, mtundu wa khungu woyera ndi wofiira unkaonedwa kuti ndi chimodzi mwa zikuluzikulu za kukongola ndi chikazi. Pamene m'zaka za zana lachisanu ndi chimodzi mphambu khumi ndi zisanu ndi chimodzi, Paolo Veronese, yemwe anali wojambula kwambiri, adafafaniza mu ntchito yake, mzimayi wolemekezeka wokhala ndi wantchito, choyamba chojambula ndi khungu loyera, ndipo nkhope yake yachiwiri inapangidwira. M'masiku amenewo, khungu loyera ndi loyera la nkhope likugogomezera udindo wa anthu ndipo analankhula za mzimayi wolemekezeka wa antchito, akazi osauka ndi ena oimira anthu wamba omwe amawotchedwa ndi dzuwa. Mwa zina, kuyeretsa kunkagwirizana ndi lingaliro la zinthu zokoma ndi zokonzedwanso monga ngale, chipale chofewa ndi kakombo woyera, zikuwoneka ngati chizindikiro cha chiyero ndi chiyero.

Mbiri ya ufa imadziwa mitundu iwiri yokha ya ufa - mineral ndi masamba. Mwachibadwa, chomeracho chinkaonekera kale kwambiri ndipo, monga lamulo, chinapangidwa kuchokera ku tirigu ndi mpunga, kapena mmalo mwa ufa wokometsera bwino. Lamulo lalikulu linali losagwiritsa ntchito ufa m'mbali mwa thupi lomwe limalumikizana, chifukwa ntchito zake m'malowa zinayambitsa khungu.

M'nthaŵi zakale, anthu a ku Igupto ndi Mesopotamiya anali ndi mafuta obiriwira ndi ofiira ofiira. Mwa njira, ngakhale tsopano akugwiritsidwa ntchito ndi mafuko ambiri ochokera ku South America, Africa ndi Oceania. Nzika za ku Girisi zakale zinkapaka nkhope zawo ndi azungu azitsogolere, komanso mwambo umenewu, komanso zinthu zina zambiri zomwe adazitenga kuchokera ku Aroma, kupatulapo dothi loyera loyera, ndi mantha, ndi ndowe za ng'ona.

Monga momwe wolemba ndakatulo wachiroma Ovid ananenera, anthu ake okhala ndi mtengo wapatali anali diazormaty - chinachake chofanana ndi bokosi lamakono lamakono, zomwe zinapangidwa kuchokera ku chisakanizo cha ufa wa tirigu ndi chisakanizo cha masamba. Ndipo chifukwa cha Pliny Wamkulu, ndipo m'nthawi yathu ino timadziwa maphikidwe angapo akale kuti tipange ufa. Maso ndi nsidze, anthu okhala mu dziko lakale ankatsogoleredwa ndi mapensulo wakuda ndi kumangoyenda kapena kungokhala ndi mpweya wopsereza wapadera. Komabe, malingaliro onsewa apamwamba analipo kwa akazi olemekezeka ndi olemera, amayi osawuka komanso akapolo amapanga kukongola pogwiritsira ntchito maski ku balere ndi dzira.

Kale m'zaka za zana lachisanu ndi chiŵiri, magawo onse a anthu amagwiritsa ntchito zodzoladzola. Ndipo pa nthawi yomweyo fashoni ya ufa imatsitsimutsidwa. Khungu linkagwiritsidwa ntchito, lisanayambe kusakanizidwa ndi azungu azungu - ndipo wochuluka kwambiri, ndi bwino. Koma pofuna kuteteza nkhope kuti isakhale ngati chigoba, Queen of England Elizabeth I ankajambula mitsempha yambiri ya buluu. Pa nthawiyi inali panthawi ya bukuli, masamba ake omwe anali ndi penti lofiira. Papepalayi amatchedwa Chisipanishi ndipo akuchotsa pepala, mukhoza kulipukuta pamasaya. Panali zifukwa zingapo zoyera, ufa ndi kuphimba nkhope ndi azungu. Choyamba, kuti mubise msinkhu wanu. Chachiwiri, kuti kuwala sikuwoneka koopsa pamene kanyumba kameneka kakuyatsa. Chachitatu, tiyenera kukumbukira kuti chikhalidwe cha ukhondo, komanso mankhwala, sizinali pamtunda pa nthawiyo, choncho anthu ena okonda zodzikongoletsera anayenera kubisala pansi pazomwe zimayambitsa matenda a vutolo ndi nthomba zomwe zinasokoneza nkhope ya anthu ambiri a nthawi imeneyo .

Ponena za dziko lakwawo, ku Russia iwo anayamba kuika pansi pamtunda pansi pa Peter I, wokondedwa wodziwika kwambiri wa Kumadzulo konse, ndipo potsirizira pake izi zodzikongoletsera zinakhazikitsidwa mu nthawi za Catherine. Amuna achi Russia ndi akazi ankagwiritsa ntchito mpunga ndi tirigu ufa, umene unali wamtengo wapatali komanso wosasangalatsa. Mutu unali wophimba kwambiri moti kunali koyenera kuvala chovala ndi ma wigs chivundikiro chapadera, mwinamwake zinali zosatheka kuteteza chovalacho ku nyemba yoyera. Mtengo wa ufa mu masiku amenewo unali waukulu. Mwachitsanzo, ku Prussia, kumapeto kwa zaka za zana lachisanu ndi chitatu, anthu okwana 9 miliyoni pa dziko lonse lapansi adadya mapaundi okwana 91 miliyoni pa chaka. Ndicho chifukwa chake sizosadabwitsa kuti anthu a ku France omwe amasintha malamulowa adakhazikitsa lamuloli pa ufa, chifukwa tirigu ndi mpunga, omwe anthu wamba analibe zambiri, amagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga. Zothandiza kwa zaka zana lonse, ufa womwe umakhudzidwa ndi kukhudza, chifukwa fashoniyo inali ndi thupi labwino komanso lachilengedwe ndi khungu. Ku UK, kuletsedwa kwa ufa, monga zodzikongoletsera zina, Mfumukazi Victoria adayika dzanja lake, kulengeza zodzoladzola ndi chirichonse chokhudzana ndi kunyansa kwake.

Kukula kwatsopano kwa mafashoni kwa ufa kunali zaka za m'ma 2000. Choyamba, ochita masewera a zisudzo anayamba kugwiritsa ntchito mwakhama, kubisala zofooka za khungu pa siteji, ndipo kenako m'moyo wa tsiku ndi tsiku. Kenaka ku France, kukondweretsa okonda zodzikongoletsera, njira yatsopano yamakono inakhazikitsidwa, yomwe maziko ake anali talc. Mpweya uwu unali kale wopanda zoipitsa zovulaza, monga kutsogolera, komwe kunayambitsa mavuto ambiri azaumoyo. Pambuyo pazaka makumi angapo chabe, makampani odzola amadzakhala ndi mavuto ambiri kusiyana ndi mbiri yakale ya ufa wokha. Mu 1932, kampani ya ku Britain Laughton & Sons inapanga mabokosi abwino ndi ophatikizana omwe ali ndi siponji. M'zaka makumi asanu, mtsogoleri wina wotchuka wotchuka wa Hollywood wotchedwa Max Factor anayamba kutulutsa mtengo wotsika wotchedwa "Pan Cake", womwe sukanatha kupezeka kwa mafilimu okhaokha, komanso kwa amayi wamba, pobisalira pafupifupi zofooka zonse za khungu. Mmodzi mwa oyambawo, wotchipa wobiriwira anayamba kubala Elena Rubishtein ndipo m'zaka za m'ma oyambirira kupanga ufa pamodzi ndi zodzoladzola zina anayamba Elizabeth Arden. Mwa njira, kumayambiriro kwa zaka za zana la 20, pansi pa chizindikiro cha High Brown, ufa wofiira woyamba unapangidwa.

Kuwonekera kwa ufa kunapatsa anthu makamaka amayi kuti ali ndi mwayi wabwino kwambiri wowoneka chimodzimodzi mosasamala kanthu za chikhalidwecho ndipo motero mu arsenal ya munthu aliyense wodzilemekeza wokonda zachiwerewere pali ufa kapena wothandizana naye wamakono.