Exomo, chiton, peplos, gimatiy, chlamys, hlena - onsewa ndi mayina a madiresi oyambirira m'mbiri ya anthu. Aigupto akale, Agiriki ndi a Thane anavala bwino nsalu. Mwachitsanzo, m'nthaŵi ya Homer, nsalu yopangidwa ndi timagulu ting'onoting'ono timapindikizira pakati kuti khola lidutse mbali ya kumanzere. Chovalacho chinali chokongoletsedwa ndi zokongoletsera, kuvala, kuvala. Yesetsani kubzala zofanana panyumba - mupeza chiton weniweni.
ZOPHUNZITSA, ZOFUNIKA NDI NKHONDO
Pamene chovalacho chinasinthidwa ndi korenaya, amisiriwo anayamba kudula manjawo kutsogolo ndi kumbuyo. M'zaka za m'ma 1200, manjawa anayamba kudula, koma izi ndizoseketsa: tsiku ndi tsiku ankayenera kusoka kapena kumanga, ndipo madzulo amaba kapena kumasula - mwinamwake sikukanatha kuchotsa kavalidwe. Ndipo pokhapokha atapanga chovala chovala, manjawo ankalowetsedwa mu chida cha "kufa".
M'zaka za m'ma Middle Ages zovala zinakhala yaitali kwambiri, ndi sitimayi, thupi lochepa kwambiri, m'chiuno - pansi pa chifuwa. Manja, omwe anali ochepa kwambiri, anatha ndi belu lomwe linaphimba chidutswa cha dzanja. Ngati iwo akukwera pansi, iwo anali okongoletsedwa ndi ubweya kapena appliqué kuchokera ku nsalu. Anali kupyolera mu manja ndi kutalika kwa kavalidwe komwe kalasi yopambana ya eni ake anali atatsimikiziridwa. Ndipo apa pali kukongola kokongola, ndikufuna kuti nsalu yotchinga iwonongeke, imayesa kavalidwe katsopano: bodice imamangiriza chifuwa, chiuno chimamangirizidwa ndi lamba wandiweyani, ndipo m'chiuno mumakhala mtengo wokongola kwambiri wa moccade, moire, velvet, satin wovekedwa ndi wokutidwa.
M'zaka za XVII, mphero yazimayi inali yolimba ndi corset ndi chitsulo gaskets. Mwapatali kwambiri, chiunocho chinasandulika masiketi okhwima. Kuwonjezera pazithunzi kunali kolala yaikulu. Lamulo litangowamba mwadzidzidzi (m'chowonadi, kaŵirikaŵiri chifukwa cha kusowa kwa oxygen chifukwa cha chimbudzi cholimba kwambiri), zinkaganiziridwa kuti m'zovala izi, zimawoneka bwino komanso zokoma.
Pofika zaka khumi ndi zisanu ndi ziwiri mphambu khumi ndi zisanu ndi ziwiri Paulo Poiret adayitana akazi kuti athake mosavuta ndikusiya corsets. Mzere wautali unayamba kufika pamzere wa mitsempha, chiunocho chinakulira pamwamba pa chiuno, manjawo akadali otalika m'dera la chida champhongo ndi yopapatiza pamagetsi, anakhala uniformly ngakhale. Chilakolako chosavuta zovala nthawi zonse chinkatengera njira zatsopano zowonetsera kavalidwe. Kotero, mwachitsanzo, izo zinapangidwa kudula pamodzi ndi oblique kuti zikhale zoyenera za chiwerengerocho. Patapita nthawi, amayiwa anatsegula miyendo yawo moyenera. Kuwonjezera pamenepo, pambuyo pa nkhondo yoyamba yapadziko lonse ndi kusintha kwachuma, anthu adangokakamizidwa kuti azikhala ndi moyo wokhutira kwambiri, kumene kulemera kwa nsalu yayitali kunali chabe cholepheretsa chachikulu. Chovalacho chinayamba kusiya zinthu zochepa, ndipo kudula kunayamba kuganiziridwa mochuluka komanso mosamala. Nthaka yatsopanoyi inakonzedwa ...
Osati KUKHALA KWAMBIRI, KOMA NDI KULEMBA
Ndipotu, amayi ankakonda kuvala madiresi amodzi. Zoona, panali zifukwa zapadera izi. Kawirikawiri kunali kulira. Kapena madiresi ena sanali chabe chifukwa cha umphaŵi. Akazi amasiye, othandizira masitolo m'masitolo, atsikana achikulire okhaokha ... Mwa njira ina, iwo sanagwirizane ndi chimwemwe. Kodi anali wakuda modzidzimutsa? Nthawi zina, inde. Pamene Mfumukazi Victoria ya ku England anali wamasiye, dziko lonse linalowa mu zovala zake zolira. Komabe, kavalidwe kakang'ono ka fetusi kanasintha kwambiri.
Gabrielle Chanel adalenga monga chitsanzo, mu 1926 ndipo adalengeza poyera kuti mafashoni ndi osatheka popanda zovala zofiira. Usiku wonse unakhala chizindikiro cha chic chatsopano, ndipo pafupifupi chizindikiro chomwecho cha France monga Eiffel Tower. Chovala choda chakuda sichinali chakuda: Chanel anamwalira wokondedwa wake. Atatha iye, theka la dziko lovala maliro. Mitundu yokondwa ndi yapadela ya khomo lalikulu inayiwalika.
Kodi mbambande inkawoneka motani? Nsalu - mitsempha, mdulidwe wodula, mikono yayitali yaitali. Palibe zopitirira: palibe collar, palibe mabatani, palibe mapepala, palibe frills. Chokongoletsera chokha ndi mndandanda wa ngale pa khosi, kuchepa pang'ono. Chanel adalankhula mosakayika kuti ambiri ogulitsa coutuvers amatha kuyang'ana pamwamba pa kavalidwe, koma kungangokhala pansi. Ankaganiza kuti kutalika kwa bondo sikuloledwa: mawondo ake ankawoneka ngati iye ngati gawo loipitsitsa kwambiri la thupi lakazi. Kotero iye anawaphimba iwo pakati. Vvalidwe yatsopanoyi inali ya demokarasi. Lolani chovala chomwecho tsopano chinali pa nthawi ya mkazi aliyense - ngakhale yemwe ndalama zake ndizochepa kwambiri. Mungofunika kukonzanso zovalazo ndi chovala chimodzi kuti mumveke bwino komanso mumavala bwino.
Ambiri opanga mapepala amatha kuyesa zambiri ndi zovala zazing'ono zakuda. Chilichonse chinasintha: kutalika kwa manja, mawonekedwe a khosi, nsalu yaketi, katatu. Cholengedwa cha Koko potanthauzira Karl Lagerfeld chinasandulika chovala chaching'ono chotsika pansi kapena ngakhale diresi yoyera. Chovala cha chikopa cha Dior chinabwezeretsa mkaziyo mpaka ku Middle Ages. Zafanishi zinakulungidwa kavalidwe kuzungulira shala. Emanuel Ungaro anawonjezera chiuno, kutsindika pachiuno, ndi msuti wautali wautali. Valentino ankasokera ndi nsalu zakuda. Yves Saint Laurent ananyoza ndi kukongoletsa malo odulidwawo ndi milomo yofiira kwambiri yozizira ngati Salvador Dali. Ndipo Gaultier analongosola zovala zoyera kwambiri kwambiri: zovalazo zinali zitakulungidwa thupi lonse, ndipo phokoso lakuya lozungulira lonse linadutsa pansi pa chifuwa, kumuwonetsa momveka bwino.
Koma izi ndi zokondweretsa: mu mbiri yonse ya mafashoni ndi kalembedwe, zolakwika zilizonse zapachiyambi zinachotsedwa kavalidwe kakang'ono kakuda kopanda pake. Zinakhala chirichonse: bizinesi, malo ogulitsa, madzulo, koma sizinatheke kuti zikhale zamoyo zonse, choncho, ndalama zatsopano zinkafunika kuti zibwezeretsanso zovala. Kuonjezera apo, ndi chovala chosinthika, mwiniwakeyo anali kuvulaza mosayenera, kukumbukiridwa ndi ena - kuziyika nthawi zambiri kunali kale koopsa.
Nthawi iliyonse ya fashionista samatopa ndi "kutchula" kulengedwa kwa Coco. Zifanizo zilizonse ndi chinthu ichi zikhoza kuchitika mwadzidzidzi. Pano pali dona atavala jekete losavuta pamwamba - ndipo akhoza kutumizidwa ku ofesi. Iye anawonjezera chovalacho ndi chovala cha ubweya ndi brooch ndi zitsulo zazing'ono - chovalacho chinasandulika chovala chokongoletsa maphwando. Nyengo iyi, mungathe kulola zovala zofiira zakuda ndi mtundu wofiira wamoto wofiira. Ngati kuzizira, phokoso lokhala ndi manja aatali lidzapulumuka, koma limakhala loonda komanso losiyana. Kapena pamwamba pa kavalidwe - kolala ya ubweya wa mating yaikulu. Njira yochepetsetsa imatha kuganiziridwa mofanana, yomwe imabedwa pa thalauza yolimba. Mwa njirayi, nyengoyi Fashion Fashion Chanel inachepetsanso manja a magawo atatu ndikupereka njira zosiyana - kavalidwe kakang'ono kofiira, kowala ndi cocky. Zithunzi: phwetekere, karoti, matanthwe, geranium, zofiira, zofiirira, burgundy ...
KUYENDA KWA NYIMBO YOYAMBA
Ndipo chovala chotani tsiku lililonse? M'nyengo yozizirayi, ambiri amadziwika bwino mafashoni mu zovala zimakhala zochititsa chidwi, pafupifupi ascetic sarafan (mudzapeza zina zoterezi ku Deha ndi Benetton), zomwe zingathe kuvala ndi mahatchi oyera osalakwa ndi turtlenecks zokongola kwambiri. Ndipo sayenera kuvala kwa achinyamata okha, koma kwa akazi a zaka zapakati. Ndikofunika kuti khunguli likhale ndi khola laling'ono popanda ngodya zowonongeka, mphulupulu zing'onozing'ono, ndipo panali makapu pamanja apang'ono. Sarafanchik mulimonsemo saloledwa kukhala oyenerera. Chilichonse chikhale chachikulu, mfulu komanso chopanda chidziwitso. Zokonzekera za nyengoyi zimaperekanso kavalidwe ndi khosi pamutu ndi khola laling'ono (Mango, La Redoute).
Ngati tikulankhula za mafashoni, ndiye kuti DKNY imavomereza chilankhulo cha Latin - chovala choyera chokwera ndi nsonga yapamwamba. Gucci ankakonda kavalidwe ka shati, atakongoletsedwa ndi sequin zasiliva, kuvala ndi chiuno chokwanira komanso "patchwork". Miuccia Prada amapereka malaya amfupi, zovala za satini - zofiirira, zofiira, lalanje - ndi mapewa ozungulira m'ma 40 (musanyalanyaze chovala cha golidi ndi fungo la Sinequanone). Ferre anasonyezera zovala zapamwamba mumayendedwe a nsalu, zakuda ndi beige mitundu (pafupifupi ngati Anastasia ndi S'Oliver ndi Alain Manoukian). Karl Lagerfeld analimbikitsa kugwiritsa ntchito zipangizo zamakono: silicone wakuda, zikopa za siliva, zoperekera ma sequins. Mitundu yovomerezeka: bulauni, yoyera, siliva, buluu, buluu, pinki. Zotsatira zake - chiwonetsero cha chisudzo cha m'ma 60: zitsulo zazing'ono ndi agulugufe, zobvala ndi mtundu wa bat. Zonsezi zikufotokozedwa mwachindunji ndi mbiri ya mafashoni ndi zovala. Chofunika kukhala nacho ndi chovala chachikulu chomwe chikugogomeza m'chiuno. Kuyenera kuyang'ana pa MonSoon ndi Karen Mylen - mudzawona madiresi ofanana.