Gawo 1. Kugwiritsira ntchito zidulo mu cosmetology: hydroxy acid

Muli makampani okongoletsera anthu omwe sakonda nkhani za "Kugonana ndi Mzinda." Kodi mukuganiza chifukwa chiyani? Tsopano tizitsitsimula kukumbukira chigawo chachisanu chachisanu cha nyengo yachisanu, ndipo mudzamvetsa chifukwa cha mkwiyo wawo. Samantha yemwe anali woopsa atalowetsa kuchipatala kwa jekeseni wa Botox, ndipo dokotala wabwino adalimbikitsa kuti ayesetse kuti asidi akuyang'ana, kunena mu mawu a velvet: "Njira imodzi yokha idzabwezeretsanso kwa zaka 15-20." Chifukwa chake, blonde achoka ku chipatala ndi kutentha kwakukulu pamaso. Nkhani yoopsya, hu? Panthawiyi, dokotala wa sayansi ya zachipatala Jeannette Graf amanena kuti zodzoladzola zamadzimadzi ndizobwenzi ndi khungu - chifukwa zimakhala zowonongeka kale. Ndipo katundu wawo ndi osiyana kwambiri: ena ndi abwino kuposa anyani otha kutsitsa, ena amapereka kuwala, ena amalimbitsa ntchito zotetezera za epidermis ndi kuzichepetsa. Kotero kuti musadzipunthwitse mwadzidzidzi ndi chinachake chosiyana, musanayambe kutsogolera pa mitundu yambiri ya zidulo, pakufunidwa mu cosmetology ndi zofunikira za ntchito yawo. Oxyacids (ANA ndi VNA)
Msungwana wamakono akungofunikira kuwala - ndipo atsikanawa amachititsa khungu kuwunikira ndipo palibe chomwe chinganene kuti ndi vuto.

Mphamvu ya zidulo ndi chiyani?
Sungani ma epidermis ndikupatseni kuwala kwabwino (zobisika - pochotsa maselo akufa), kulimbikitsa kupanga collagen (pano ndi za unyamata, monga mumvetsetsa), konzekerani khungu lanu ndikuchotsani maginito, ndipo chitani zonse kuti musayambane ziphuphu.

Iwo ndi ndani?
Apa tinaganiza zokambirana nthawi yomweyo za mitundu iwiri ya zidulo: ANA ndi VNA. Ndiloleni ndifotokoze ndikukuuzani zomwe gulu lirilonse liri. Onsewa amalembedwa ndi zidulo zakuthupi ndipo amagawanika molingana ndi mawonekedwe a maselo: alpha (ANA) ndi beta-hydroxy-acid (BHA). Ngakhale, ambiri, amasiyanitsidwa ndi mfundo imodzi: yoyamba - kalata A, imasungunuka m'madzi, imatulutsa mafuta. Ndipo tsopano tikumasulira: ANA-hydroxy acids amagwira ntchito pa khungu lirilonse, VNA-yabwino koposa onse ndi abwenzi ndi mafuta kapena kuphatikiza.

Ntchito za boma za ANA
Mulemba kuti asidi akuwonetsere mu salon: mukudziwa, mukuyembekezera njirayi ndi ANA-hydroxy acids. Maluso awo akuluakulu ndi kuchotsa maselo akufa, ndipo malinga ndi ndondomekoyi kuti athe kuchita izi angathe kumbali yozama. Mwachitsanzo, tsiku la kirimu lomwe lili ndi ANA, limene mumadzichepetsera kwanu, limagwiritsidwa ntchito ndi stratum corneum, katswiri wamadzi, wokhala ndi chigawo chokhala ndi asidi 20%, adzafika mpaka pachimake. Zonse zoyamba komanso zoyamba, alpha-hydroxy acids ndizo zotsatirazi: zimagawidwa pakati pa maselo a khungu ndi kukankhira kunja zakale zowonongeka, pomwe zimathera bwinobwino. Mofanana ndi ndondomeko iyi, pa kukhudzana ndi mphamvu yogwira ntchito, maselo okhala pansi akuyamba kusonyeza ntchito. Izi zimagwiranso ntchito ku fibroblasts zomwe zimabala collagen, zomwe zimakhudza ubwana wanu.

Mlingo
Mu ANA-kirimu ndi kuyeretsa, mchere wa acids suyenera kupitirira 5-8%, chifukwa cha kusamalira salon, chigawocho ndi 20%. Ngati mutagwira m'manja mwa katswiri wabwino, kupota kungapangitse zotsatira zowonongeka zomwe zikufanana ndi microdermabrasion: makwinya ang'onoang'ono adzachoka, khungu lidzawoneka ngati latsopano. Khalani okhutira ndi zotsatira, pitani kwa asidi peels iliyonse miyezi itatu kapena sikisi.

Kodi mukufuna kuti mankhwalawa ndi ANA asakhumudwitse? Sungani malangizo ena atatu:

1. Lembani "asidi" ku khungu lopanda khungu - madzi samatsitsa zotsatira zake.
2. Yesetsani kugula mankhwala a ANA m'ma pharmacy. Pali mwayi wambiri wogula mankhwala ndi mankhwala abwino kwambiri.
3. Ndondomeko yoyenera ya chisamaliro cha kunyumba iyenera kukhala: Kutsekemera kwa tsiku ndi kuyeretsa ndi ANA, komanso kusamalira usiku ndi maso - popanda iwo.

Ntchito zovomerezeka za VNA
Pamaso panu, okangana bwino ndi khungu. Izi zimakhala ndi comedonolytic ndi anti-inflammatory properties. Chifukwa cha lipophilicity yawo, amatha kulunjika pole ndi tsitsi lopaka tsitsi, kumene amachotsa zitsamba ndi maselo akufa ndikupha mabakiteriya omwe amachititsa kuti ziphuphu zisokonezeke. Oimira otchuka kwambiri a gululi - salicylic acid ndi resorcin - mungapezepo chilichonse chopanga mavala.

Mlingo
Ngati khungu lanu liri la mafuta, ndipo limatha kutsekemera, popanda kukayikira, pitani ku kuyeretsa ndi salicylic zilizonse (0.5 mpaka 2%) ndi resorcinol (1 mpaka 3%). Ndi zovuta zooneka ndi nkhope, mapepala okhala ndi salicylic acid amawonetsedwa. Chitani kokha m'chipinda chokhalamo, chifukwa kuchuluka kwa mankhwala omwe alipo pano kudzakhala koopsa kwambiri, kungathe kufika, ndipo nthawi zina kupitirira 25%. Maphunziro ovuta ndiwo njira zisanu kapena khumi, kamodzi pa milungu iwiri iliyonse.

Ndipo mukhoza kamodzi pamlungu kupanga maski ndi 2% salicylic acid. Kwa nthawi yoyamba, sungani chinthucho pamaso panu osapitirira mphindi ndikukana lero ndi ndalama ndi Retinol.