Calvin klein: mbiri ya mbiri

Mwinamwake aliyense wodzilemekeza wodzikonda ali ndi zovala zake chinthu chimodzi chokha kuchokera kwa wopanga, yemwe amapanga zovala pansi pa dzina lomwelo dzina lake Calvin K lein. Zovala za chizindikiro ichi nthawi zonse zakhala zikuyendera patsogolo pa mafashoni, zomwe zinapangitsa kuti azidziyesa mafashoni. Koma kodi nkhani yabwino ya wojambula waluso ndi iti? Tidzakambirana za izi m'nkhani ya lero "Calvin K lein: mbiri ya chizindikiro."

November 19, 1942 ku United States of America, mumzinda wotchuka wa New York, anabadwira Kelvin Klein. Bambo a Kelvin anali ndi kanyumba kakang'ono. Chifukwa cha agogo anga aakazi, Kelvin anaphunzira kusokera makina osokera, amayi anga anathandiza kuti azikhala ndi chidwi chosavuta, nthawi zonse ankapita ku masitolo a zovala zokonzeka pamodzi ndi ogwira ntchito pamodzi. Mnyamatayo analipo nthawi zonse pokambirana za mafashoni ndi mafashoni. Kelvin Klein akunena kuti pa 5 adalota za tsogolo la wokonza mafashoni. Kotero, iye analibe kusankha komwe angaphunzire ndi komwe angapite sukulu.

Mwa zabwino zomwe adaphunzira ku Sukulu Yapamwamba ya Zithunzi. Kenaka mu 1960-1962 adalowa ndikuphunzira pa Technological Institute of Fashion. Mogwirizana ndi maphunziro ake, Calvin ankachita mu studio, kumene anathandizira kupanga zovala. Pambuyo pake anayenera kugwira ntchito ndi ojambula ambiri ndipo amajambula zithunzi za anthu odutsa pamsewu. Ntchitoyi inali makamaka kwa zochitika, chifukwa sizinabweretse ndalama zambiri. Madzulo madzulo Calvin akugwira ntchito yake yopanga mbiri.

Mbiri ya mtunduwu inayamba mu 1968, pamene Kelvin ndi bwenzi lake lakale Barry Schwarz analinganiza Calvin Klein, Ltd ku New York. Barry anapereka ndalama, ndipo Kelvin nthawi zonse analibe lingaliro limodzi. Klein anapanga chotsatira chake choyamba ndipo anaganiza kuyika izo ku hotela pa imodzi mwa malo. Tsiku lina, woyang'anira nyumba yosungiramo zinthu, yomwe ili pansi pansi, anasokoneza makatani a elevator ndipo anafika pansi pomwe zithunzizo zinawonetsedwa. Kusonkhanitsa kwa Kelvin kunachititsa chidwi bizinesiyo kotero kuti anaganiza kuti apange ndalama zokwana madola 50,000. Kwa Kelvin Klein anali kudumphadodometsa kudziko lake, dzina lake linadzitchuka, ndipo kotero ufulu wodalirika unatulukira.

Klein anayamba ntchito ya studio yake ndi zokopa za amuna, koma pang'onopang'ono anayamba kupanga zovala za amayi. M'zaka za m'ma 70, iye adatsegula suti ya amuna kuti awonetseke za mkazi. Mu 1970, Calvin anamasula chovala chofufumitsa chachiwiri chovala pachifuwa, kapena, chotchedwa PeaCoat (chovala cha pea). Chitsanzo ichi chakhala chovala chodziwika kwambiri pa nyengoyi, komanso, chakhala chokongola kwa zaka khumi zotsatira.

Kelvin mu 1973 adalandira mphoto "Kochi" popanga zovala zoyengedwa bwino komanso zangwiro. Kotero iye anali woyambitsa wachinyamata wamng'ono mu mbiriyakale ya mafashoni kuti alandire mphoto iyi.

Ndipo mu 1974, wojambulayo anapanga zovala zatsopano ndi zobvala zatsopano. Posakhalitsa, anatopa ndi njira yabwino, ndipo Klein adaganiza zokonzekera "kuphulika" kwake koyamba, komwe kunadabwitsa kwambiri dziko lonse la mafashoni komanso malamulo a makhalidwe abwino a ku America. Pamapeto pake, 1978 anadziwika ndi kutulutsidwa kwa jeans designer, ndipo apa wopanga anakhala woyamba. Za zovala zomwe zimaganizidwa tsiku ndi tsiku komanso zotsika mtengo, iye amawawonetsa ngati zovala za achinyamata okongola komanso okongola. Mdulidwe wokongolawu umatanthauziridwa bwino ndi chiwerengerochi ndipo unalimbikitsa kugwedeza kwa miyendo ndi miyendo yochepa, logo ya Calvin Klein ndi Omega inaikidwa pa thumba lakumbuyo.

Kelvin anaganiza zofalitsa malonda. Ndipo, mu 1980, wopanga chithandizo mothandizidwa ndi wojambula zithunzi Bruce Weber adapanga chithunzi chojambula cha jeans ndi Brooke Shields, chomwe chinakhala chizindikiro cha kugonana ndi nyenyezi ya mafilimu. Kenaka ku America kunamveka chiwembu, Klein anaimbidwa mlandu wogwiritsa ntchito ana, ndipo anthu omwe ankawombera ankawombera. Kuchotsa jeans kuchokera ku zokolola, chinyengocho chinachotsedwa, ndipo kampaniyo inatha kubwerera ku chitsanzo cha kale chokha mu 1998.

Mu 1982, Klein anakonza zojambula zatsopano, zopangidwa ndi zovala za amuna, zomwe zidaphatikizapo corset yaikulu ndi logo ya Calvin Klein. Mu gawo la zitsanzo zokopa zovala, supermelel D. West ndi rapper M. Mark anasankhidwa, ndipo thupi lachibwana-wamaliseche linakhala loyambirira. Klein ankanena kuti adapanga zovala kuti anthu akhale achigololo.

M'zaka za m'ma 80, wopanga malingaliro adayang'ana pa chitukuko ndi kupanga zovala ndi zovala. Kutsatsa sikudapite popanda zopanda pake, zomwe zakhala mbali ya fano la wopanga. Klein ankayenera kulipira ndalama zokwana madola milioni, zomwe zinaika tchalitchi kuti chithunzicho "Chakudya Chamadzulo Chochokera ku Klein." Anali ndi mbiri yodziwika bwino ya m'Baibulo, koma zitsanzo zake zinali mu jeans komanso matupi amaliseche.

Mu 1992, Kelvin adadodometsanso America. Chaka chino adalenga chikhalidwe chatsopano cha achinyamata "chosakanizika", chomwe chinadzakhala chotchuka kwambiri. Kenaka, monga chofalitsa, chojambula chokhala ndi Kate Moss wamng'ono ndi wolemba mbiri dzina lake M. Mark anatulutsidwa. Zovala za Calvin Klein zikhoza kuvala ndi achinyamata amtundu uliwonse, lingaliro ili linalandiridwa ndi kupambana kwakukulu.

Mu 1999, wopanga, chifukwa cha nthawi ya umpteenth, adayambitsa chisangalalo chatsopano ndi malonda. Klein anatulutsa chosonkhanitsa chatsopano chomwe chinkayimira zovala za ana, ndi zovala za achinyamata. Zithunzi ndi ana zimaonedwa ngati zosasangalatsa. Chotsatira chake, wopanga adapepesa, ndipo pulogalamu ya malondayo inaimitsidwa kotero kuti panalibenso milandu yowopsya.

Bzinesiyo inali panjira, ndipo klein analibe malo ochepa chabe, koma anakhala ufumu wambirimbiri, chaka chonse cha $ 5 biliyoni. Kusunthika kolondola ndi ndondomeko kwakhazikitsa chithunzi chodziwika bwino, mayanjano alowetsa kwambiri malingaliro a ogula. Mikangano ndi zowonongeka nthawi ndi nthawi zinathandiza kupanga ndi kusunga fano la malonda, lomwe lidayenera kukhala looseness, unyamata ndi kugonana. Kelvin Klein akuonedwa kuti ndiye woyambitsa kuvala anthu "kuyambira mutu ndi phazi," m'magulu ake munali zovala zamkati ndi zovala. Atakhazikitsa okha ku USA ndi ku Ulaya, mu 90s kampaniyo inayamba kusamukira kummawa, mabotolo anatsegulidwa ku Kuwait, Jakarta ndi Hong Kong.

Klein mwamsanga anachitapo kanthu pa kusintha kwa mafashoni pa dziko lapansi, zomwe zinamuthandiza kuti apambane bwino kwambiri. Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za XXI, adayambitsa msonkhano watsopano monga "asilikali". Pasanapite nthawi, wojambulayo anamasulira zovala zophimba malaya, mathalauza, mawondo, maketi ndi maondo a khaki.

Kuwonjezera pa zovala, Calvin anatulutsa mafuta onunkhira angapo, omwe anali ndi fungo lachimuna ndi lachikazi. Mu 1983 kunawonekera "Muyaya", mu 1985 - "Obsession", ndipo mu 1986 - "Otdushina". Mizimu yomwe imatsindika zobvala zobisika, imapambanabe, kotero iwo ali ndi fake zambiri. Mu 1998, kununkhira kwa "Kukangana" kunatulutsidwa, komwe kunadzakhala kotchuka kwambiri, ndipo kunawerengedwa pa anthu omwe akulimbana ndi mavuto awo okha.