Mtundu wamagetsi ndi mawonekedwe a mafashoni, omwe amadziwika ndi mawonekedwe osazolowereka, kugwiritsa ntchito zipangizo zosayembekezereka zosayembekezereka. Poyamba, liwu lakuti "avant-garde" (French) linalongosola mbali ya asilikali kutsogolo, ntchito yomwe idayenera kupyola mzere wolimbana ndi adani. Pang'onopang'ono mawu awa anayamba kugwiritsidwa ntchito pa zochitika zilizonse zapamwamba za nthawi yake.
Poyambirira, kusankhana kulimbana ndi mitundu yosiyanasiyana yambiri, nthawi zina ngakhale kukana kutsutsana ndi kutsutsana muzandale komanso m'magulu. Koma magawo onse a moyo waumunthu ali ogwirizana wina ndi mzake, ndipo kalembedwe kamene kamabwera mu gawo limodzi kawirikawiri idzaperekedwa kwa ena kuganizira zawo. Chizoloŵezi chimenechi chisanafike nthawi chakhala chikhalidwe cha anthu ambiri. Monga kavalidwe ka zovala, sitimayi inaonekera pafupi zaka makumi asanu ndi limodzi za m'ma 1900. Maluso ochuluka kwambiri adapeza mpata woti adziwonetsere mwazinthu zowonongeka, ndi njira yabwino kwambiri yowonongera mzimu wanu wopanduka. Winawake wapambana ntchito, wina osati kwambiri, koma aliyense, chifukwa cha kalembedwe kameneka, adatha kupanga ntchito yapadera.
Mpaka lero, kalembedwe kausadara kamapezeka mu mtundu uliwonse wa luso labwino, achinyamata omwe amalenga mwa njira iliyonse amayesetsa kudziwonetsera okha, ndipo ndi njirayi yowonetsera yomwe imapereka mpweya wodabwitsa.
Zizindikiro za kalembedwe
Mapulogalamu oyendetsera mafashoni amawonekera pazinthu zosiyanasiyana: kugwiritsa ntchito ndi kuphatikiza zida zosazolowereka ndi mawonekedwe, mawonekedwe, mizere, mitundu, kupanga maonekedwe opangira maonekedwe ndi zina zomwe si zachilendo, asymmetry, kugwiritsa ntchito zipangizo zogwiritsidwa ntchito, zovala zosakhala zachikhalidwe. Chinthu chilichonse chomwe chingapangire chithunzithunzi choyambirira, ngati chinapangidwa kuchokera ku zinthu zosagwirizana ndi zinazake kapena kuphatikiza zosiyana ndi mtundu wa mtundu. Zovala zotere sizingatheke kutayika m'magulu, ngakhale zitakhala zofunikila kuti zisavalidwe tsiku ndi tsiku.
Chojambula chisanafike, choyamba, chimachokera kwa Pierre Cardin. Pierre Cardin, mmodzi wa opanga mafashoni apadziko lonse lapansi, akhoza kuonedwa kuti ndi kholo la mafashoni awa mu mafashoni. Msonkhano wake wapadera, wopatulira kuyambitsa satelanti yoyamba yapadziko lapansi, umangodzaza ndi mzimu wa avant-garde. Kawirikawiri pantchito yake wopanga amagwiritsa ntchito njira yoyesera, iye, mofanana ndi wina aliyense, akuphatikizana kuphatikizapo osayankhula. Zolemba zake zosangalatsa zimaganiziridwa lero monga maziko a chithunzi chamasewera: zazikulu zazikulu zosiyana-siyana, mitundu yowala, yopanga maonekedwe atsopano pa zinthu zomwe zimadziwika bwino - zonsezi zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pa ntchito yake.
M'dziko la mafashoni, palibenso opanga mafashoni omwe angagwiritsidwe ntchito pokhapokha ngati akuyendetsedwe. Okonza ambiri nthawi ndi nthawi amalenga zolemba zatsopano.
Anthu otchuka omwe amasankha kalembedwe ka-gardens
Vivienne Westwood - mmodzi wa oyamba anayesa kalembedwe kameneka mu ntchito zawo. Ntchito yake yadutsa miyeso yambiri - kuchokera ku punk yotsutsa ndi yotsutsana ndi zolemba zandale pa T-shirts ndi T-shirt.
Mwachisangalalo iye ankagwiritsira ntchito kalembedwe ndi Norma Kamali (Norma Kamali) - mtsogoleri wodabwitsa wa zinthu zambiri. Anapanga "malaya ogona" - chosakaniza chovala ndi chikwama chogona, mathalauza opangidwa ndi nsalu ya parachute ndi zinthu zina zokoma.
Pogwiritsa ntchito mafilimuwa, olemba mafashoni otchuka monga Zandra Rhodes, otchuka chifukwa chopanga zovala za opera ndi zisudzo, Issey Miyake, wotchuka chifukwa cha ntchito zake pamodzi ndi mawonekedwe a kummawa ndi kumadzulo, adalenga Yves Saint Laurent Raymond Clark (yemwe analenga zovala zapamwamba komanso mwiniwake wa Victoria's Secret, poonetsa zovala zake zapamwamba pamtambo wa catwalk, "angelo" amaliseche), Gareth Pugh (wojambula fabulously -kusangalatsa kodabwitsa s), Alex Zalewski (mlengi osati za mapale modabwitsa, komanso kukonza zionetsero za kuwonetsera), Tatiana Cannon (mlengi wa "karambolskogo" avant-garde kalembedwe) ndi ena.
M'dziko lamakono lamakono, mafashoni nthawi zambiri amapita kumalo osungirako zinthu mumayesero ake kuti apange chinachake chapadera. Chovala chotere chifukwa cha kutchuka kwake chinaphatikizidwanso m'ndandanda wa maphunziro omwe anaphunziridwa ku Sukulu ya Mafashoni a San Francisco, yomwe ndi imodzi mwa masukulu akuluakulu padziko lonse lapansi.
Kugwiritsa ntchito kwake mu zovala
Mtundu wamasewera sungakhale wa aliyense, kapena kuti zidzanenedwa, kalembedwe kameneka sikakhala koyenera pa mafashoni a msewu . Koma zimakhala zoyenera kwa anthu olenga, ndizotheka kuzigwiritsa ntchito nthawi ya gala madzulo kapena mwambo wina wovuta. Zovala mumasewerowa sizithunzi zokhazokha, zimakhala ndi tanthauzo lalikulu lachinsinsi, lopangidwa kuti liwulule dziko lamkati la munthu.
Ndondomeko yamagetsi imatanthawuza kugwiritsa ntchito mitundu yowonjezera yowonjezera - izi ndizipangizo, kupanga komanso kukonzekera tsitsi.
Zida
Zovala, komanso zovala, zimakhala zolimba. Kaŵirikaŵiri zimakhala zolimba kwambiri ndipo nthawi zambiri zimapangidwa ndi manja. Zida makamaka zimagwiritsa ntchito chitsulo, miyala ndi mtengo. Nthawi zambiri zovala zimakongoletsedwa ndi mauta oyambirira ndi mabatani. Chikwamacho chimasankhidwa muzojambula zamitundu, masewera kapena masewera, nthawizina kumangiriza kungabwererenso.
Zovala, monga lamulo, zimawonetsa zochitika zoyambirira kwambiri kapena zopangidwa ndi zipangizo zomwe si zachikhalidwe. Zingakhale ngati nsapato zokhala ndi zidendene, kaya kunja, kapena pa nsanja.
Zojambulajambula, zomwe zimapangidwira kavalidwe ka zovala, zimatanthauzanso kupanda malire kopanda malire - n'zotheka kuphatikiza mitundu yosiyanasiyana, kupereka mawonekedwe osaganiziridwa, kulembetsa zokongoletsera ndi zipangizo zosiyana siyana, chofunika kwambiri, kuti sizithamanga ndi chovalacho.
Zodzoladzola zambiri zomwe zimakhala pansi pa chithunzi cha avant-garde zimakhala zowala, koma n'zotheka ndi kusowa kwa mapangidwe.
Ndondomeko yoyenera - ndi zovala, ndi zodzoladzola, ndizomwe zimapangidwa ndi ufulu wonse wosankha mitundu yonse. Koma izi sizingakhale zosokoneza zokhazokha mzere, motero, chithunzichi chiyenera kutuluka mwachinsinsi, ngakhale kuti si chachilendo.