Wokonza kwambiri Alexander McQueen

Wopanga mapulani Alexander McQueen, panthawi ya moyo wake akudziwika ndi anzake ndi otsutsa akatswiri, abwino kwambiri m'badwo wake. Anasiya, sananene zabwino.

Yankho la funso lakuti "Chifukwa chiyani?", Chifukwa choti opambana, aluso, ozunguliridwa ndi abwenzi ndi olemekezedwa anzawo amaganiza kuti aswe ndi moyo, ndi manja awo amamangiriza kumutu kwawo, nthawi yomweyo amakhala pamwamba ndipo palibe amene amadziwika. Palibe yemwe angadziwe zomwe zikuchitika mu moyo wa Lee McQueen wa zaka 40 (ili ndilo loyamba, dzina la "nyumba" la wopanga), kuchokera pa moyo wake mmodzi mwa amodzi omwe ali atsikana apamtima kwambiri kwamuyaya. Mu 2007, mtsikana wake anamwalira, muse, yemwe adamukhulupirira kuti ndi wodabwitsa kwambiri - Isabelle Blow. Kenaka anangochoka ku India, kusiya zonse, adalowa mwa iye yekha kwa mwezi umodzi, ndipo atabwerako, adayambitsa msonkhanowu kudziko lapansi, "Msungwana Amene Anakhala Pamtengo." Zinapezeka kuti izi ndi zonse zomwe akanatha kumuchitira tsopano. Chaka chapitazo azakhali Dolly adachoka.

Dzina limeneli limangodziwika ndi mabwenzi ochepa chabe a wamkulu wamkulu Alexander McQueen, koma kwa iye mwiniwake ankatanthauza zambiri. Mkazi wamng'ono yemwe sanaphonye kawonetsedwe kamodzi ka Lee. Ndipo pa February 2, 2010 mayi ake adored Joyce McQueen anamwalira. Kuchokera pa imfa ya McQueen pa February 11, munthu waulesi yekha sanatchulepo zokambirana ndi mwana wake, wa 2004, chifukwa cha nyuzipepala ina yaku Britain. "Kodi mukuopa chiyani kuposa china chirichonse padziko lapansi?" "Tisanafe." "Zikomo, mwana wanga." Kodi mumanyada kwambiri? "Mwa iwe." Mawu awa amakumbukiridwa ndi atolankhani, abwenzi akukumbukira wina: "Iye ankakonda kubwera kwa amayi anga ndi kumwa tiyi ndi mabisiketi pamene anali kukhala pa sofa naye." Kutaya okondedwa nthaŵi zambiri kumafuna thandizo kwa okondedwa. Koma mwamuna yemwe ankamukonda ndi Lee McQueen, anamusiya miyezi isanu ndi umodzi asanamwalire amayi ake.


Imani nokha

Mnyamata wazaka zitatu, iye ankajambula pa ziboliboli za mapepala mu madiresi a mpira. Mwana wa woyendetsa galimoto, wamng'ono kwambiri pa ana asanu ndi mmodzi, wobadwa m'madera ena ogwira ntchito ku East London. Wopanga magetsi, katswiri wamakina, woyendetsa tekisi bwino - awa ndiwo chiyembekezo chimene chikanayembekezera. Kuphunzira ku sukulu yapafupi kwa anyamata ndi nkhanza zake zankhanza sizingasinthe kuti zikhale zabwino. Chinthu chopindulitsa chokha chinali chakuti pambuyo pake chinamuthandiza wopanga wamkulu Alexander McQueen kuti apirire: "Lamulo lalikulu ndi ili: nthawi zonse konzekerani kutenga nkhondo ... Muyenera kudziyimira nokha. Ndipo ngakhale simunapambane, mumasewera! "Atachoka kusukulu, adayesa ntchito zambiri: kuchokera kwa mtumiki ku miyambo yopita kwa wogulitsa m'sitolo yosungiramo masewera. Kufikira tsiku limodzi, amayi a Alexander adapeza chikalata chokhudzana ndi amuna omwe amamanga nyumba ndipo adakumbukira zithunzi za ana pakhoma. Mu studio ya amuna ku Savile Rou iwo adangobweza ophunzira. Kumeneko, m'masukulu omwe adagula zovala za Mikhail Gorbachev ndi Prince of Wales, tsiku ndi tsiku kwa zaka zitatu akukonza ma jekete ndi thalauza, adaphunzira chinthu chofunikira kwambiri - kupanga, kudula ndi kulemekeza zazitsulo. "Anali maphunziro abwino kwambiri. Kuchokera apo ndimakonda chitukuko ndipo ndikuganiza kuti palibe chofunika kwambiri mu bizinesi yathu. M'magulu anga, ngakhale pret-a-porter iyi, chirichonse chimapangidwa ndi dzanja. Ndicho chifukwa chake amawoneka ngati Mkwati Wamtendere. "


Ndiye kunali Milan . "Ndinkafuna kuona momwe amagwirira ntchito mofananamo. Kuwona ndi kuphunzira. " Mphunzitsi anali Romeo Gigli, yemwe McQueen, mosiyana ndi malingaliro a ambiri, ankaganiza kuti anali mtsogoleri pakati pa opanga mapangidwe a zaka za m'ma 80. Kenaka - wotchedwa Central Saint Martins College ya Art ndi Design, komwe McQueen, malinga ndi mphekesera, asanafike anabwera ndi kudzipereka molimba mtima kuti anali mphunzitsi. Chotsatira chake chinagulidwa mwathunthu ndipo mwamsanga pambuyo pawonetsero kwa £ 5,000. Imeneyi inali ndalama zambiri kuchokera kwa bambo ake, mtsogoleri wolemera kwambiri, mtsogoleri wa British magazine Tattler Isabella Blow.


Kuwukitsa mphamvu

Pokhala ndi kukoma kosamvetseka komanso ulamuliro waukulu mu mafashoni, Isabella nthawi zonse amauza aliyense kuti wamkulu Alexander McQueen wapanga kukhala wotchuka wotchuka m'zaka za m'ma 2100. Chisamaliro chake sichinali kokha kumangomveka mwachidwi. Posakhalitsa McQueen adasamukira ku nyumba yosamalidwa ku Belgrava Square, yomwe inamupeza iye ndi bwenzi lake Philip Tracy. Apa mbiri ya Alexander McQueen inayamba. Zisonyezero zoyamba zinayambitsa zotsatira za bomba lomwe linaphulika. Izi zinali zosangalatsa zosaiŵalika zosangalatsa, kubwezeretsa dziko lonse lapansi pamtanda. "Pamene ndikupanga zokopa, ndili ndi nkhani m'mutu mwanga ... Ndimaona zonse, ndikukonzekera, ndikuyimba nyimbo. Zonsezi zimakhala zochititsa chidwi, ndipo mafashoni ayenera kusangalatsa! "Pambuyo pa nyengo yoyamba, aliyense anali wofunitsitsa kupita kuwonetsero kwake. "Anthu omwe sanafune chidwi ndi mafashoni adadzaza nyumbayi ngati mafilimu a rock," nyuzipepalazo zinalemba. "Nihilism", "Mbalame", "Pitani ku nkhalango" - zokolola zopambana zimatsatiridwa limodzi. Ndipo posakhalitsa - nkhani yosangalatsa: nyumba yosungiramo nyumba yapamwamba ya Givenchy - chizindikiro cha chikhalidwe cha French - chimaperekedwa m'manja mwa "punk" yomwe imasonyezedwa kuti magalimoto akuyendetsa pamphepete mwa mvula, mvula imagubudulira mapepala pazitsulo za madiresi, ndipo amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati akufa dzombe.


Chithunzi chake choyamba cha mafashoni kwa Givenchy House anakumana ndi chisokonezo ndi makina a ku France. McQueen sanatsatire njira yachikhalidwe ya milandu yotereyi, kukopera kalembedwe ka Givenchy, koma anapereka masomphenya ake omwe. Ndipo izo zinalibe kanthu kochita ndi fano la Audrey Hepburn, yemwe ankawonetsera ndondomeko ya Nyumbayo kwa ambiri. Iye anatenga mwayi ndipo sanalakwe. Posakhalitsa ku Givenchy anakhazikitsa mzere wa makasitomala amene poyamba ankakonda opanga ena, okayikirawo anayenera kukhala chete.

Panthawi imeneyo, iye amapanga kawiri kawiri ku Britain, akukonzekera masewera olimbitsa thupi mumzinda wa Moscow, akukakamiza omvera kuti azipita ku Carder kuti apite ku sitima yapamtunda kwa nthawi yoyamba pamoyo wake. "Ndinali wofunitsitsa kuwaonetsa zomwe sakufuna kuziwona: njala, magazi, umphaŵi," adatero McQueen. - Mukuyang'ana pa fashoni yonseyi mumagalasi amdima ndipo mukumvetsa kuti sakudziwa zomwe zikuchitika padziko lapansi. Aloleni iwo amve kudana ndi kunyansidwa-izo zimandigwirizanitsa ine mwangwiro. Ndidzadziwa kuti maganizo enawa adawadzutsa. " Pambuyo polephereka kupatukana ndi Givenchy, taluso ya McQueen yapeza mphamvu zatsopano.


Iye analankhula ndi dziko la zokolola zake. Zovala zake zinali kufuula za njala ndi mamiliyoni ambiri akufa ku Africa, za imfa yochepa ya dziko lapansi, nyumba yake, yanyansi, momwe onse ali olemera ndi osauka. Koma otsutsa mafashoni, makasitomala, amamatauni amangoona nsapato zokhazokha, chovala chofewa, nsalu zovuta komanso zovuta kwambiri, zosatheka kuzilemba. Iwo akuganiza ngati mdierekezi, koma amadula ngati mngelo, "analemba za iye.

Kukongola kosasangalatsa kwa madiresi ake, chiwonetsero, chirichonse chomwe, monga masewera amadziwombera pansi penipeni pa nyanja (yosangalatsa kwambiri), odulidwa ophweka ndi ophweka, omveka bwino kwa aliyense amene ali wokonzeka kumva, malingaliro onse ndi otsala a Alexander McQueen. "Ndidzakhala wokondwa pokhapokha ndikaleka kuchita mafashoni," Lee adanena kale ...