Nthaŵi zambiri sitigula izi kapena zinthu zina zodzikongoletsera chifukwa chakuti timachita mantha ndi mayina ovuta a zigawo zawo. Zikuwoneka kuti chirichonse chosadziwika kwenikweni chimayambitsa ngozi. Koma izi siziri choncho. Choncho, zokambirana pa mutuwo: kemisi mu zodzoladzola ndi zothandiza kwa mkazi aliyense. Tili ndi ufulu wodziwa zomwe tikugula.
AHA (alpha-hydroxy acids) ndi organic acids yomwe ili ndi zomera ndi zipatso. Amaonedwa kuti ndi chimodzi mwa zinthu zotetezeka kwambiri zowonongeka kwa mankhwala, chifukwa sichiwotcha khungu, koma zimapangitsa kuti thupi liwonongeke. Muzitsulo zing'onozing'ono ndi mbali ya zinthu zambiri zopangira nyumba. Kawirikawiri, pamodzi ndi ANA-acid, zodzoladzola zili ndi BHA-acid (beta-hydroxy acids) -salicylic acid, zomwe mosiyana ndi AHA zimalowetsa pores ndipo zimatulutsa maselo omwe amasonkhanitsa mkati mwa glands.
Antioxidants ndi zinthu zomwe zimateteza maselo a khungu ku zotsatira za zowonongeka zaufulu ndi zina zomwe zimawonekera chifukwa cha zowonongeka za thupi mthupi lathu. Mankhwala opangira mankhwala odzola amadzimadzi ndi mavitamini A, C, E, kufufuza zinthu, selenium, zinki, zowonjezera za algae.
Hyaluronic acid - imodzi mwa zigawo zogwirira ntchito kwambiri m'madzi ozizira, zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri m'mapulasitiki. Zili zokhudzana ndi khungu, chifukwa ndi mbali yofunikira ya mitsempha yothandizira. Ali ndi mphamvu yosungira mamolekyu a madzi, koma mosiyana ndi glycerin imatha kukhala ndi mphamvu zowonongeka komanso mu "mawonekedwe" owuma.
Glycerin ili ndi katundu wapadera kuti akope ndi kusunga mamolekyu a madzi. Ikani izo pokhapokha ndi zonyansa, kotero zimangowonjezera khungu ndi madzi, komanso zimachepetsa kutuluka kwake. Mu zodzoladzola, molecule imodzi ya glycerin imakhala ndi madzi osachepera 10 molekyulu.
Céramide ndi zinthu zomwe zimapangitsa kuti khungu likhale lopopera. Tetezani ku zisonkhezero zakunja ndi kutaya madzi. Amadzaza ndi zowonongeka kwa khungu ndikuwonjezera kuphulika kwa epidermis. Kawirikawiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu zodzoladzola za khungu louma ndi lopanda madzi ndi zogulitsa tsitsi.
Collagen - mapuloteni apamwamba a mitsempha yowonongeka ya epidermis, imayambitsa kutsika komanso kutanuka kwa khungu. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri popanga mankhwala okalamba. Ali ndi mphamvu yowonongeka kwambiri, mu mawonekedwe ochepetsetsa amachepetsa ngakhale makwinya.
Coenzyme ndi chigawo chokhazikika, chinthu chofunikira cha mphamvu kwa machitidwe angapo owonetserako zamagetsi m'thupi lonse ndi pakhungu. Coenzyme imapangidwira m'chiwindi cha munthu aliyense, koma ndi msinkhu, kupanga kwake kumachepetsanso. Mu cosmetology, coenzyme Q10 imagwiritsidwa ntchito pakamwa mankhwala okalamba.
Nanoparticles - zigawo zikuluzikulu zokhala ndi zochepa zolemera maselo, chifukwa chakuti ali ndi mphamvu yapadera yolowera mozama mu zigawo zakuya za epidermis. Kukula kwa nanoparticle kumasiyana ndi 1 mpaka 100 nanometers, ndipo 1 nanometer ndi 0.000000001 mamita. Nanoparticles ali opangidwa ndi njira zopangira. Ndipo lero nanocosmetics ndi nthambi yatsopano yopanga mankhwala odzola.
Zosakaniza ndi zosakaniza zowonongeka, zomwe ntchito yake ndi kubisa nthawi zina osati fungo labwino kwambiri la zosakaniza. Nununkhira wokoma umapangitsa kuti thupi likhale lokongola, koma ndibwino kukumbukira kuti ndi zonunkhira zomwe nthawi zambiri zimachititsa kuti khungu lisamayese zodzoladzola.
Parabens ndi zotetezera zonse zomwe zimapangitsa kuti alandire moyo wa zodzoladzola. Malingana ndi chiwerengero, mlingo wosiyanasiyana umagwiritsidwa ntchito mu 85%. Zakale zapitazo, asayansi adakambirana momveka bwino za ubwino ndi zoopsa za thupi, koma sanafike pamaganizo osagwirizana. Komabe, izi zinayambitsa maonekedwe a zodzoladzola ndi zoteteza zachilengedwe.
Mititamini ndi zakudya zoyambirira zomwe zimasandulika mavitamini m'thupi. Provitamin A ndi carotene, ndipo provitamin B-5 ndi D-panthenol.
Mapuloteni ndi mapuloteni omwe amalimbikitsa mawonekedwe a maselo. Pali chiyambi cha nyama (mkaka) kapena chomera (tirigu, silika).
Retinol - chochokera ku vitamini A, chimayambitsa kusinthika kwa maselo ndi njira zina zamagetsi pakhungu. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chigawo chothandizira pa zodzoladzola zotsutsana ndi kukalamba komanso pofuna kuchiza khungu lomwe limakhala lopweteka kwambiri.
SPF ( Sun Chitetezo Fyuluta ) - zowonetsera dzuwa zomwe zimapanga zowonekera pa khungu. Mwa mlingo wa chitetezo cha SPF chikhoza kusiyana pakati pa magawo awiri mpaka 60. SPF ikhoza kukhala ya mitundu iwiri: motsutsana ndi mazira a UV a B (UVB) ndi spectrum A (UVA). Mawonekedwe a dzuwa a masiku ano ayenera kuphatikizapo mitundu yonse ya SPF, pamene mlingo wa chitetezo cha mazira a B spectrum ndiwopambana kwambiri.
Flavonoids ndi zinthu zachilengedwe zomwe zimayambitsa mitundu ya zipatso ndi ndiwo zamasamba. Limbikitsani zitsulo, ndikupangitsanso kuti tizilombo toyambitsa matenda tizilombo toyambitsa matenda tizilombo toyambitsa matenda. Mitundu ina ya flavonoids imabweretsanso katundu, nthawi zambiri imatchedwa phytohormones, chifukwa imakhala yofanana ndi mapangidwe ndi zotsatira za estrogens.
Emulsifiers - stabilizers, kulepheretsa kuti emulsion stratification akhale zigawo zikuluzikulu. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito ku cosmetology kuti asunge pakompyuta kuchokera ku zinthu zovuta kuphatikizapo, madzi, ndi mafuta ofunikira.
Mavitamini ndi mafakitale omwe amachititsa kuti machitidwewa apitirire m'maselo a khungu, kuphatikizapo njira zotsitsimutsa. Matenda a enzyme amaonedwa kuti ndi ofatsa kwambiri komanso osakanikirana, pamene akuwombera ndi michere, khungu silikuvulazidwa. Mavitamini a zamasamba amachokera ku papaya ndi chinanazi.
Pamapeto pa msonkhano wosavomerezeka pa "Chemistry in Cosmetics" Ndikufuna kuwonjezera kuti simuyenera kuopa mawu osadziwika, koma musamanyalanyaze konse. Ndi bwino kukhala ndi chidziwitso chodziwika bwino pa zigawo zodzikongoletsera, kuti mudziwe zomwe zimakhudza thupi lanu. Ndiyeno zidzakhala zosavuta kusankha, ndipo kuyenerera kudzakhala kochuluka kwambiri.