Mbiri
Mbiri ya mizimu imayamba nthawi yamakedzana. Anthu akhala atatulukira kale zinthu zamtengo wapatali za fungo zomwe zingachititse kukhala ndi maganizo abwino. Kale, panthawi ya miyambo, ansembe a milungu yachikunja ankawotcha udzu, mizu ya zomera ndi maluwa nkhuku. Iwo amakhulupirira kuti utsi wokoma "ukhoza kuika milungu pa iwo," komanso kupanga chikhalidwe cha chinsinsi ndi zosatheka za zomwe zikuchitika. Komabe, zofukiza zinayamikizidwanso kunja kwa akachisi.
Anthu oyambirira kupanga zonunkhira gawo limodzi la chikhalidwe chawo anali Aiguputo. Ankasakaniza matupi awo ndi mafuta ndi mafuta onunkhira ndi fungo la sinamoni kapena uchi. Ndipo zodzoladzola izi zinali zodula kwambiri moti zikanadziwika kwa iye yekha. Mfumukazi yodabwitsa yotchedwa Cleopatra inalamula kuti iwonetsere sitimayo za zombo zake ndi mizimu, kotero kuti fungo laumulungu likanamulengeza iye kufika.
Ku Persia, pakati pa olemera, ankaonedwa kuti ndi njira yabwino yokhaliramo violets, jasmine, maluwa ndi maluwa ofiira m'minda yawo, kuti azigwiritse ntchito popsereza zonunkhira. Ndi kwa Aperisi omwe timayenera kukhala ndi madzi a rose. Agiriki akale ankayesera kupanga mapulogalamu osiyanasiyana ochokera kununkhira zosiyanasiyana ndi kulemba maphikidwe awo, kufotokoza zomwe zomera zimapatsa osowa. Ndipo Aroma ameta nsalu zawo, kenako adathira mafuta pa khungu. Mu Middle Ages, mafuta onunkhira ankagwiritsidwa ntchito kusokoneza fungo losasangalatsa lomwe linkawonekera chifukwa cha ukhondo. Pomwepo ndiye kuti mizimu yamadzi imeneyi inakhazikitsidwa chifukwa cha mowa ndi mafuta ofunikira, omwe timadziwika kwambiri mpaka pano ndikugwiritsidwa ntchito mu perfumery.
Nthawi idadutsa, koma mafuta osiyana ankapitirizabe kukhala otchuka. Zimadziwika kuti Napoleon Bonaparte ankakonda fungo la jasmine ndi violets. Ndipo iye anawamasulira kwa munthu wake wovekedwa korona kwa tsiku mpaka 12 malita a zonunkhira. Ndipo sizinali zophweka. Emperor ankakhulupirira kuti kununkhira kokoma kumamuthandiza kuti athetse bwino nkhondoyi. Ndiponso, pamagulu ankhondo omwe amagwiritsa ntchito mafuta onunkhira. Mwa njirayi, mu 1804 iye adayambitsa kampani yoyamba ndi mafuta onunkhira ndipo anapanga madzi onunkhira, omwe amachitcha chimbudzi.
Bambo wa zopukusira zamakono ndi Francois Coty. Iye sanali "mphuno" yokha, koma komanso wamalonda wabwino. Iye anali ndi lingaliro la kugulitsa mafuta onunkhira mu mitsuko yokongola, osati mophweka apothecary vials. Anayambanso kuphatikiza fungo lachilengedwe ndi fungo lopangira kwa nthawi yoyamba. Kotero mu 1917 kununkhira "Cyprus" kunapangidwa, komwe kunabweretsa mbiri ya Koti. Masiku ano njira yowakono imalola kugwiritsa ntchito zozizwitsa zosangalatsa kwambiri. Mu kugulitsa kumabwera kuchuluka kwa mizimu, ndipo kusankha "awo" kungakhale kovuta kwambiri. Koma tidzayesa kumvetsetsa izi.
Sankhani mafuta onunkhira
Posankha kununkhira, munthu ayenera choyamba kukumbukira kuti munthu aliyense ali ndi "khungu" lapadera. Izi zikutanthauza kuti mizimu yomwe mumakonda "pachibwenzi", ikhoza kununkhira pa khungu lanu. Mafuta ayenera kusankhidwa payekha. Kupatsa apa malangizo ena ndi ovuta, koma pali malamulo ena.
Akatswiri samalimbikitsa kubwera ku sitolo ndi kuyesa chirichonse. N'zosatheka kuti njira iyi idzakuthandizani kusankha bwino. Mukhoza kuyesa zomwe zili muzida zitatu. Kupanda kutero, "mumathamanga", musokonezeke ndipo musakhale ndi zomwe mumafuna.
Popeza mwadziwaza nokha ndi mizimu, onetsetsani kuti mukuyenda nawo kwa kanthawi, kotero kuti kununkhira kutsegulira kwathunthu. Kuwonjezera apo, pakhungu lanu, lingasinthe pang'ono. Ndipo muyenera kuganizira pa "sitima", chifukwa adzatsagana nanu tsiku lonse.
Zolemba zapamwamba zimapangidwa pa mfundo ya triad: choyamba (kapena chapamwamba) cholemba, cholemba chapakati (kapena cholembera cha mtima), ndi cholemba chapakati (kapena "kutseka"). Pambuyo polemba zolemba izi pang'onopang'ono zimaloŵerana wina ndi mzake, ndipo fungo labwino ngati "likutsegula".
Ndi bwino kusungirako zokoma zosiyana ndi zochitika zosiyanasiyana. Mwa njira, mukhoza kuwerenga zolemba m'magazini, malonda kapena malonda. Nthawi zambiri zimaperekedwa kutanthauzira za mtundu wa zonunkhira: chikondi, masewera, zokonzedwera ndi zina zotero. Mwina angakuuzeni fungo liti kuti asankhe kupanga fano linalake.
Ndiponso, sizongoganizira kuti muzimvetsera zolemba ndi dzina. Kawirikawiri kapangidwe ka mafuta (makamaka mtundu) amafanana ndi khalidwe lake. Kafukufuku amasonyeza kuti zimakhala zovuta kukumana ndi mafuta a citrus mumdima wakuda.
Ngati inu mumakonda mafuta onunkhira, kumbukirani wopanga. Mwinanso mungakonde zosangalatsa zake zatsopano, monga zinthu zina monga mtundu wina kapena kapangidwe kamene angakonde.
Timagwiritsa ntchito phindu
Tsopano mawu ochepa ponena za kugwiritsa ntchito. Mizimu imayika mkati mwa ziwalo ndi zitsulo, kumbuyo kwa makutu, mu decollete ndi pansi pa mawondo - ndiye kununkhira "kumafika pa moyo" ndi kusuntha kulikonse komwe mumapanga. Mukhoza kudula tsitsi lanu (makamaka bwino pazitsulo zosungidwa madzi a chimbuzi) kapena zovala (zokoma - zingakhale zotayika). Ndikofunika kukumbukira kuti chiŵerengero cha mizimu chimadalira komwe mukhala. Sikoyenera kukhala wokoma kwambiri mu chipinda chaching'ono. Ndipo kawirikawiri zimakhala zowonongeka, kumenyedwa m'mphuno, ngakhale kuti zimakhala zosangalatsa m'mbali iliyonse, kununkhiza kumatengedwa ngati mawonekedwe oipa. Ndipo musaiwale kuti thukuta limalimbikitsa kununkhira. Choncho, ngati kutentha mu chipinda kapena mumsewu, gwiritsani ntchito mizimu mosamala, mwinamwake aliyense adzathawa.
Pogwiritsa ntchito mafuta onunkhirawo, pamapeto pake mumayamba kuzizoloŵera ndikusiya kuzizindikira. Ndiyeno simungadziwe ngati ndinu wolimba kapena wofooka. Chifukwa chake, ngakhale nthawi zina mizimu iyenera kusinthidwa kuti mutenge pang'ono fungo lokonda. Komano, ndithudi, mukhoza kubwerera kutero.
Pangani zonunkhira bwino mu phukusi, makamaka m'malo ozizira. Koma ndi bwino kuti muike mabotolo pa tebulo lovala. Chinthu chachikulu - kuti panalibe kutentha. Ndipotu, kutentha ndi kuwala kwa dzuwa, mizimu imakula mofulumira kwambiri - izi zimatchulidwa ndi fungo losinthika ndi mtundu. Simungathenso kusunga mavuvu mu bafa. Nthawi zambiri kutentha kumasintha, ndipo izi zimabweretsa zomwe zili m'mabotolo okongola kuti zisasokonezeke. Ngati simukudziwa kuti nthawi zambiri mumadzaza, musagule mabotolo akuluakulu. Mafuta onunkhira sangathe "kukhala ndi moyo" kosatha, kotero zimakhala zomvetsa chisoni ngati fungo lidzawonongeka, komanso kuti sichidzakhala "kuthengo."
Ndipo musaiwale kuti mafuta amasiku ano ndi njira yodziwonetsera. Zingakhudzire kwambiri momwe mumazionera ndi ena. Mizimu ikhoza kukupangitsani kukhala okongola pamaso pa ena, kapena iwo akhoza kusokoneza malingaliro onse. Choncho, kumbukirani kuti pogwiritsa ntchito madzi onunkhira, monga muzonse zomwe zikukhudzana ndi mawonekedwe anu, payenera kukhala kulawa, kuchepetsa komanso zochitika. Sizomwe akunena kuti kulenga fano ndi thandizo la pfungo ndi luso weniweni.
Mitundu ya Mafuta
Pali mitundu yambiri ya zonunkhira. Komabe, ndi mwambo kusiyanitsa magulu akuluakulu otsatirawa.
Zipatso za cititrus. Zomwe amapanga, mafuta ochokera ku mandimu, mandarin, malalanje, mphesa, bergamot ndi zipatso zina zofanana. Zosangalatsa zoterozo zimakhala zowala komanso zatsopano.
Zamaluwa. Dzina, mukhoza kulingalira kuti maziko ndi maluwa okongola: ananyamuka, amabala, kakombo, narcissus, violet, kakombo wa chigwa, jasmine ndi ena. Mizimu imeneyi nthawi zambiri imakhala yachikazi komanso yotchuka.
Wood. Utsi waukulu ndi sandalwood, rose bush, patchouli, mkungudza, vetiver. Kawirikawiri zimagwirizanitsidwa ndi zolemba za blue iris, myrtle ndi musk. Mizimu ya mtundu umenewu ndi yolemetsa kwambiri.
Maferesi (magalasi a vinyo) . Ziri zochititsa chidwi kuti zomera zakale sizikugwirizana ndi mizimu ya mtundu uwu, ndipo iwo amatchedwa mafuta a Fougere Royale. Zinali zochokera ku fungo la udzu watsopano (kotero kuti fungo lopanga coumarin, lomwe limagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga). Kawirikawiri mizimu imeneyi imakhala ndi mavitamini obiriwira. Kumarin nthawi zambiri amasakanizidwa ndi zilembo za geranium, lavender, nkhuni, bergamot ndi moshi.
Shipry. Dzina la gulu ili linachokera ku zonunkhira "Cyprus" lolembedwa ndi François Coty, zomwe zanenedwa kale. Zimachokera ku fungo la mthunzi wa oak, zomwe zimaphatikizapo zolemba za zofukiza-labdanum, patchouli, resin, wise, bergamot.
Ambreous (kum'maŵa, kapena kummawa) . Mizimu yamtundu uwu ndi yowala kwambiri, imatengedwa madzulo. Ndi zonunkhira ndi ufa, vanila, sinamoni, zonunkhira, komanso kuphatikizapo zomwe zimatchedwa "zolemba zinyama".
Chikopa. Gulu ili ndi mafuta ambiri a munthu. Mankhwalawa ndi awa: juniper, birch tar, utsi, nkhuni zoyaka, fodya.
Mitundu yambiri yamakono imaphatikizapo kuchuluka kwa magulu ang'onoang'ono. Komanso, palinso mitundu ina. Mwachitsanzo, zipatso, zobiriwira, nyanja, zokometsera, aldehyde . Zomalizira (aldehyde) zimakhala mankhwala, zimapangidwa ndi fungo lopangira. Chitsanzo chochititsa chidwi kwambiri cha mafuta aldehyde ndi Chanel No. 5.
Komanso, zofufumitsa zimagawidwa kukhala mitundu malingana ndi ndondomeko, zomwe zimakhudza kupitiriza kwa mafuta onunkhira. Pamwamba pa chiwerengerocho, kukhala kolimba kwambiri, kopanda zofunikira pamene kugwiritsidwa ntchito:
- Perfume (mafuta, zowonjezera) - mndandanda wa 20-30%.
- Perfume madzi, mafuta onunkhira (eau de parfum, Parfum de Toilette, Esprit de parfum) - mchere wa 15-25%.
- Chophimba madzi (water de Toilette) - chiwerengero cha 10-20%.
Za mafuta, zonunkhira, mbiri ya mizimu, ndemanga ndi mauthenga onena za mizimu yomwe inauzidwa ndi kulembedwa zambiri. Koma momveka bwino komanso mwachidule analankhula za mizimu ya Coco Chanel: "Perfume ndi wosawoneka, koma wosaiwalika, chosasinthika, mafashoni. Amalengeza maonekedwe a mkazi ndipo akupitiriza kumukumbutsa za pamene adachoka. "