Mbiri ya mafuta a ku Russia inayamba, monga akunena, "za thanzi". Alendo onunkhira akunja, omwe sanakhale ndi mwayi kudziko lawo, anasamukira ku Russia, kumene anawonekera ndi mphamvu ndi zazikulu. Inde, ndi "makosi" a Chirasha, ataphunzira bwino kudziko lina kapena kugwira ntchito monga ophunzira, "adapatsa" dziko lawo dziko luso lawo: Russian perfumery - mankhwala opangidwa ndi mafuta onunkhira anayamba kutchuka kwambiri. Kumapeto kwa XIX - kuyambira kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 2000, mayina a A. Ferrein adayendayenda m'dziko lonselo, ndipo ogulitsa a Khoti la Imperial - A. Ostroumov, G. Brokar, A. Ralle ndi A. Siu - ankadziwika osati ku Russia komanso ku mayiko akunja. Choncho, Alexander Ostroumov anatchuka chifukwa chopanga sopo kuchokera ku dothi, ndipo kenaka anatsegula fakitale yake yopangira mafuta onunkhira.
"Mphuno" yotchuka " Alfons Ralle" inapereka mafuta onunkhira a ku Russia - zopangidwa zonunkhira osati ku Khoti Lachifumu, komanso kwa Mfumu Shah ya Persia ndi Ulemerero Wake Prince Chernogorsky. Mphamvu yake inalandira kalatayo ya boma la Russia maulendo anayi - mphoto yamtengo wapatali kwambiri, yomwe inaperekedwa chifukwa cha zinthu zabwino kwambiri. Zinali pa fakitale "A. Ralle ndi Co. "anayamba ngati othandizira ma laboratory Ernest Bo (wolemba Chanel wotchuka No. 5). Ngati sizinali zowonongeka zomwe zinapangitsa munthu wopanga luso labwino kuti asamuke, adzalandira udindo wa mkulu wa ndondomekoyi, ndipo sadziwika kuti zidzakhala bwanji ndi "malo opangira mafuta". Khadi lina lapenga la Russia lopukuta zonunkhira - Heinrich Brokar. "Mphuno" imeneyi ndi nzika ya ku France. Atafika ku Russia, adatsegula bizinesi yake ndipo poyamba anayamba kupanga zopsa zonunkhira, koma sopo wonunkhira. Ambiri pantchito yake, Henry adakwatira mkazi wake - Charlotte. Ndi iye yemwe amamupangitsa iye kupambana kupambana: kugulitsa sopo wotsika "mphatso" (ya mawonekedwe osazolowereka) - mawonekedwe a mpira ndi makalata osindikizidwa a zilembo. Brokarovskaya malonda adasanduka chipongwe. Pakhomo la masitolo ogulitsa omwe adapereka kwa ogula "malonda a malonda: chifukwa cha ruble zinali zotheka kugula zinthu zopangira khumi, zomwe zinaphatikizapo mafuta onunkhira, mafuta onunkhira, mafuta, vinyo wosasa, vaseline, ufa, chifuwa, sachet, milomo, sopo. Chisangalalo chinali choti apolisi azitseka sitoloyo.
Chilendo china cha Russian parfumery - mankhwala okometsera - "Flower" yamchere - inagwedeza Moscow lonse. Pazithunzi zonse za Russian-Art and Art, "kasupe" wonyezimira unamangidwa, momwe aliyense angasunge mpango, magolovesi komanso ngakhale malaya akunja. Lingalirolo linakhala lopambana chotero kuti "Flower" inakhala yoyamba ya Russia yochuluka kwambiri. Pamene Great Duchess Maria Aleksandrovna anabwera ku Moscow kudzacheza, Brokar anamupatsa iye maluwa a sera - maluwa, maluwa a m'chigwa, violets, daffodils. Ndipo duwa lirilonse linasokonekera ndi fungo lofanana. Maria Aleksandrovna, yemwe anali wokondwa, anapatsa wogulitsa mafuta onunkhira dzina laulemu wake.
"Brokar ndi Co" mgwirizano wakula kwambiri kuti mafuta a ku Russian amatchedwa "Brokar Empire", ndipo zonunkhira zake zinagulitsidwa kugulitsidwa ku mayiko ambiri a ku Ulaya. Paziwonetsero zosiyanasiyana za mayiko ena, fakitale idalandira makalata 14 a golidi, inakhala msika osati kokha ku Khoti Lolamulira la ku Russia, komanso nyumba ya mfumu ya ku Spain, ndipo pa bolodilo la kampaniyi panali zizindikiro zitatu za boma, kutsimikizira kuti katunduyo ndi wapamwamba kwambiri.
Ngati Brokar anayamba ngati sopo, ndiye Adolf Siu - wopanga mafuta ndi mikate. Pokhala ndi ndalama zabwino kwambiri kuchokera ku bizinesi, Siu anaganiza zopanga mafuta onunkhira ndipo anapambana mu bizinesi ili ndipo anayamba kupereka Dipatimenti ya Imperial osati kake, koma ndi zonunkhira. Zofukiza zake zinali za gawo la "mafuta onunkhira" ndipo panalibe aliyense. Mwachidule, makampani opanga mafuta onunkhira mu Russia asanayambe kusintha. Ndiyeno chaka cha 1917 chinayamba ...
Zojambula zoyambira kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma XX zokhudzana ndi mizimu ya A. Ostroumov, Ekaterina Geltser, Bolshoi ballet dancer: "Ndikavina mu" Corsair ", ndimagwiritsa ntchito zonunkhira Violette ..." Elena Podolskaya, opera soloist: "Mafuta anu" Oyenera "amandizungulira , kuti, ndikuwatsitsimutsa, ndimayenda, monga maloto amaluwa onunkhira. " Raisa Reisen, wojambula masewera a Maly Theatre: "Ngati Napoleon atasokonezedwa ndi Napoleon wamatsenga, Josephine sakanamupusitsa."
Phoenix, wobadwanso kuchokera pamphuno
Russia-Post-revolutionary ... Pa zokambirana: kuthetseratu ziphuphu zonse. Ndipo kuphatikizapo zonunkhira - malo odyetserako ziweto zambiri. Dziko latsopano limapuma utsi wa mafakitale, thukuta labwino ndi thupi loyera. Asilikali Ofiira ndi Anthu Akusowa Sopo - Osatinso. Zonsezo ndizo zotsalira za bourgeois. Zotsatira zake, mafakitale onse opangidwa ndi mafuta onunkhira analandira manambala amodzi ndikusandulika ziphuphu za sopo. Kampaniyo inagwirizanitsa ndi "Chophika cha Soap State" 4, ndipo kenako - Sopo State ndi Factory Factory "Svoboda". "Brokar" adasandulika "Sopo ya boma ndi nthonje 5" (kenako "Zarya Zatsopano"), "Siu" - mu fakitale "Bolshevik", "Bodlo ndi Co" - mu fakitale ya "Dawn".
Panthawi ya NEP, kupangira mafuta onunkhira kunayambanso, koma nthawi ya Stalin inatha msanga-zosafunikira. Mkazi wokongola kwambiri wochokera ku Soviet alite, "mkazi wachiwiri wa USSR", mkazi wa Molotov, Polina Zhemchuzhina, adagwirizana nawo "kulimbana" ndi Stalin kuti apange mafuta onunkhira a pakhomo. Analowetsa mtsogoleri woyamba wa "New Dawn" A. Zvezdov, anasamukira ku malo ena. Pambuyo pake, ngaleyo inkayenda ndi chikhulupiliro "Fatness", ikugwirizanitsa makampani onse odzola ndi zodzoladzola, ndipo patatha zaka zingapo iye anasankhidwa kukhala mkulu wa General Directorate ya mafuta onunkhira, zodzoladzola, makampani opanga ndi sopo. Anali Polina Zhemchuzhina yemwe anatha kutsutsa Stalin kuti asawononge mafuta onunkhira, adatha kutsimikizira kuti "mafuta onunkhira ndi malo odalirika, opindulitsa komanso ofunikira kwambiri kwa anthu". Ndipo adakakamiza "atate wa anthu" kupereka "zabwino" kwa zonunkhira za mafuta ofunikira. Motero ku Russia kununkhira kunapanganso moyo wachiwiri.
Mu 1930, kuika kwa Russia mafuta onunkhira - zopangira zonunkhira ndi zopangitsa - magulu opanga mafuta onunkhira a mafakitale "Svoboda" ndi "Bolshevik" adatengedwa ndi "New Dawn". Kotero "New Dawn" inalandira padera pa kupanga mafuta opangidwa ndi mafuta onunkhira. Panali mafakitale ena opangidwa ndi mafuta onunkhira komanso odzola m'mayiko a United States, koma iwo sanatanthawuze kuti "phwando la pfumbi."
Pulogalamu ya mafakitala a mafuta analipo funso lofunika: momwe tingawonetsere kuti mizimu ikuwonetsa ndondomeko ya chipani? Anagwiritsa ntchito lamulo lalikulu: samayiwala za bouquets zokongola ndi zosakaniza zosakaniza. Mafuta amafunikira ndi anthu ogwira ntchito, zomwe zikutanthauza kuti zikhale zosavuta, zomveka komanso "kulimbikitsa chikondi cha amayi a". Anthu ambiri lerolino amazindikira kuti mizimu ya Soviet inali yowopsya komanso yowopsya, ndipo phokoso lopaka mafuta linali losauka.
Komabe, pang'onopang'ono, pang'onopang'ono, pang'onopang'ono zofukiza zonunkhira "zowonongeka" malo otaika. Kuchokera ku brokar "mabinki" amaiwalika mabala, "ziso" zapakhomo zidatengedwa kuti ziyesedwe, malo a "elite perfumery" adapangidwa. Phoenix anabadwanso kuchokera pamphuno. Mwachidziwikire, violin yoyamba idasewera ndi "New Dawn", yomwe idakondweretsedwa bwino (zabwino, panalibe mpikisano, komanso zochitika zina zakunja sizinayembekezere nzika za Soviet). Nyuzipepalayi inakondweretsa nawo masewera osiyanasiyana ndipo inalandira madalitso apamwamba. Lero, kampani yotchuka ya mafuta onunkhira - "Red Moscow", "Black Box", "Blue Casket", "Stone Flower" - imagulitsidwa ngati yosavuta pamtengo wamisala. Chigawo cha Russia chokongoletsera chinawonjezeka, komanso bizinesi iliyonse yomwe ili pansi pa "Iron Curtain" pokhala opanda mpikisano waukulu. Koma tsopano bingu lina linabuka - mavuto azachuma, kuchepa kwa kupanga, kugwa kwa USSR ...
Apanso kuyambira pachiyambi
Pamene kutuluka kwa zinthu zakumadzulo kunkagulitsidwa ku msika wam'nyumba, makampani a ku Russian omwe amapanga mafuta onunkhira a ku Russia - zopangidwa zonunkhira sakanakhoza kuyima mpikisanowo ndipo anapita kumthunzi. Inde, atatha kugulitsa, mabwana a ku Russia amayenera kuyamba "kuyambira pachiyambi" - kuphunzira kuchokera Kumadzulo, kukumbukira njira "za agogo aakazi" ndikuyesera kumanga njira yawo pa munda wa proomzhennom wa perfumery. Komabe, kubwezeretsanso miyambo yopangira mafuta onunkhira ndi ntchito yosayamika. Mafomu apangidwa zaka mazana angapo zapitazo ndipo amangogwiritsidwa ntchito pokhapokha pokhapokha chiwerengero chochepa cha zinthu zachilengedwe, tsopano satha ntchito ndipo "kuyang'ana," kachitidwe kachikale. Zipinda zamakono zamakono zimakhala zochepa kwambiri kumayiko a kumadzulo monga zogwiritsira ntchito zipangizo ndipo sangakwanitse kupanga zofunikira zoyambirira. Kuphatikiza apo, mafakitala ambiri osayenerera omwe amapanga zinthu zabwino zotsika kwambiri adzizira, ndipo nkhuku zambiri zawoneka. Chotsatira chake, wogula wa ku Russia potsiriza anasiya chidaliro mu maiko "achibadwidwe" ndipo amasankha kugwiritsa ntchito malonda a makampani akumadzulo. Masiku ano, zonunkhira zapakhomo zimakhala ngati mwana wosazindikira. Kuyesayesa kosatsimikizika kwa chidwi ndi wogula akuchitidwa ndi "New Dawn", kapena kuti, "Newle Etoile". Mafuta oyambirira nthawi zina amawopseza ndi mayina awo osadziwika. "Nthawi ya Mkazi", "Mania ya Usiku", "Wokongola", "Shaman Charming", "Life in Pink", "Tsatirani Ine Usiku" - kumveka ngati kuseka. Mu mafuta ena, akatswiri amati, "kununkhira" kwa mizimu ya kumadzulo kumamveka: "Kuznetsk Bridge" ikufanana ndi Climat yochokera ku Lancome, "Kukongola kwa Russia" - kwa Coco Mademoiselle kuchokera ku Chanel, "Chikondi cha chikondi" - kwa Angel ndi Thierry Mugler. Mapangidwe ndi mabotolo - osangalatsa ndi osakondweretsa - ndi otsika kwambiri kuzinthu zakunja. Inde, ndi malonda otsatsa omwe amafunidwa kwambiri. M'mawu ena, ngati makampani apakhomo amatha kubwezeretsanso wogula (ndipo maiko akunja amalamulira malonda oposa 60% a Russian "onunkhira" lerolino), kulimbana kuli kovuta. Komabe, "zaka za zana lachitatu" za Russian perfumery zangoyamba kumene, ndipo mwina, zidzakhalanso kufika pamtunda, zomwe zinagwapo kale.
NOUVELLE ETOILE
Sili kampani ina yachilendo konse, koma "New Dawn" yathu. Kampaniyi yakhala ikugwirizana ndi azimayi a ku France kwa zaka khumi, ndipo zonunkhira zambiri za fakitale zikupangidwa mu ma laboratories a ku France. Kupitiriza kumvetsetsa kwa mgwirizano umenewu kunali kubwezeretsa kampaniyo.