Masiku ano, kuposa kale lonse, mizimu imapangitsa chidwi ndi zilakolako zabwino, chifukwa tsiku lililonse likadutsa iwo akukhala osiyana komanso oyeretsedwa. Mafuta kwa aliyense ndi zosankha zake, madzulo ndi madzulo madzulo. Aroma ndi njira yozindikira dziko lapansi. Aliyense wa ife ali ndi maselo okwana 5 miliyoni (ndithudi, poyerekeza ndi galu yomwe ili ndi 200 miliyoni, yomwe ndi pang'ono), yomwe imatithandiza kuti tizindikire zonse zomwe zimakondweretsa fungo. Zingakhale zomvetsa chisoni kuti musagwiritse ntchito. Ndipo kwa zaka zikwi zambiri, anthu sanagonjetse zokondweretsa zoterozo: ziwalo zoledzeretsa zoyankhulana ndi mizimu, zonunkhira zamphamvu ndi za musky, kuyesa kununkhiza kwa imfa, zokongola zokongola za zonunkhira zomwe ma marquis amakonda okometsera, kudziwa chithumwa ndi chikondi. Zaka makumi khumi ndi ziwiri zinapangitsa odzola kukhala ambuye enieni: mizimu inayamba kupanga, monga momwe wojambula akujambula chithunzi. Amphamvu kwambiri adziwa luso lodziwika bwino, chifukwa cha zokometsera zosawerengeka, ananyamuka ku Grass ndi iris kuchokera ku Tuscany anasanduka mitundu yambiri yosangalatsa.
Mphuno yothandiza
Wopaka mafutawa ayenera kukhala wojambula, katswiri wamagetsi ndi kukhala ndi chipiriro: kuti muzindikire ndi kuphatikiza zovunditsa zachilengedwe zoposa 150 ndi zopsereza zokwana 3000, muyenera kuphunzira kwa zaka khumi. Ndi za maphunziro okhaokha. Talente ndi nkhani ina. Izi sizingaphunzire. Ambiri amachitanidwa, osankhidwa pang'ono ndi abwino okha, omwe maina awo amapezeka ndi zokopa zotchuka kwambiri. Zimatengera miyezi ingapo, ndipo nthawi zina, kupanga kapangidwe kake. Cholinga nthawi zonse ndi chofanana: kukhazikitsa "chokakamiza," chomwe sichitha kuiwalika. Monga mmodzi wa "mphuno" yotchuka Eduard Rudnitska akuti, "mizimu yabwino ndi imene mumakhala nayo." Pipettes, mabotolo a mafuta onunkhira, mapepala a papepala kuti awonetse fungo ndi zolembera - izi ndi zipangizo zogwiritsira ntchito zonunkhira zomwe zingagwire ntchito pa miyezi kuti ziwonetsere, mothandizidwa ndi kununkhira, mitu yomwe amapatsidwa kwa chitukuko. Zidzatenga mazana a kuyesera ndi kuphatikiza kwakukulu kuti mupeze zomwe zikufunikira. Pakati pazitsulo zamtengo wapatali, mbali zake zomwe zimayesedwa pa masikelo a zamagetsi, ziganizireni. Zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito zimaphatikizidwa kwa milungu ingapo - panthawiyi mafuta amalowa mu mgwirizano wina ndi mzake - kenako amatsitsidwa ndi mowa. Gawo la maceration limayamba, panthawi yomwe fungo, ngati vinyo, limapsa muzitsulo zapadera, ndiyeno mfulu ya mmera imakhala yozizira. Zimatuluka madzi achitsulo, omwe amaikidwa m'mabotolo.
Munthu wowala
Mwa njira, pafupi ndi botolo. N'zodabwitsa kuti kununkhira sizinthu zonse. Mutha kunena ngakhale kuti nthawi zonse sagwirizana pa nthawi yogula. Chikoka choyamba, kutisokoneza kuyesa izi, osati mizimu yina, ndi dzina limene limabweretsa maloto kapena botolo lokongola lofanana ndi ngale. Choncho kufunikira kupeza mawu olondola, chithunzi cha zamatsenga ndi zipangizo zokongola zomwe zingathe kufotokozera "umunthu" wa fungo lokoma. Mwachitsanzo, Emilio Valeros, wofukiza zonunkhira za mtundu wa Loevve wa ku Spain, nthawi zambiri amapanga fungo lokoma pokhapokha ngati malingalirowo ali opangidwa bwino: kapangidwe ka botolo ndi malonda a malonda.
Mphatso zachilengedwe
Luso la kulenga zonunkhira ndi loyamba mozizwitsa "khitchini" la kusakaniza zosakaniza zosiyana siyana, zachirengedwe kapena zopangidwa. Mafuta ambiri samanga samasankha inflorescence, koma zonunkhira. Chanel yekha, Jean Patou, Guerlain, Dior ali ndi minda yawo yokongola maluwa ndipo amapanga bouquets okha. Amayi akuimira zomera, zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kupanga "elixirs zamatsenga": May ndi Damasiko roses, jasmine, Florentine iris - miyala yodzikongoletsera yamtengo wapatali. Pambuyo pake, kulima ndi kukolola kwa "sissies" izi ndi ntchito yovuta, choncho zamasamba zamasamba ndi okwera mtengo kwambiri. Mitengo yamtundu womwewo, yomwe imakhala ndi zipangizo zamatabwa zamatabwa komanso zamakono, imagwiritsidwanso ntchito ndi odzola. Mitengo imapezeka kuchokera ku mkungudza wa Morocca, kuphulika kapena ku sandalwood. Kupatulapo zophimba ndi nyemba zowonda, zomwe sizikugwiritsidwa ntchito pa chakudya, mu labotala la wopanga mafuta onunkhira mungapeze zonunkhira, zopsereza komanso zonunkhira zomwe zimawonjezera zonunkhira ku mbale zathu. Choncho, safironi, sinamoni, turmeric, vanilla, caraway ndi cloves amagwira nawo ntchito yopanga zodzikongoletsera zam'mawa (amber). Momwemonso ambergris ndi "chirengedwe" chokhacho cha nthanga za umuna, zomwe zimakhala ndi mafuta obirira ndipo zimatulutsa mankhwala, zimatulutsa mankhwala. Dothi lowala kwambiri kuposa madzi limatha kusambira kwa nthawi yaitali pamwamba pa nyanja. Ambergris anagwidwa kwa miyezi yambiri mpaka kununkhira kwake kosasangalatsa kumatheratu, kumapereka njira yowonongeka ya iodized. Thupi limeneli ndilolemekezedwa kwambiri ndi odzola ndipo limagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chokonzekera mu mafuta apamwamba kwambiri.
Nahimichi
Mitengo ya mankhwala sizimatsutsa zachirengedwe, koma imawathandiza, kuti athe kusintha mitundu yonse ya odzola. Zaka 100 zapitazo, zonunkhira dziko lapansi zapindula ndi zoposa 2000 zopangidwa ndi mafuta. Mafuta a zonunkhira, omwe akhala akuyambika kuyambira chiyambi cha zaka za zana la khumi ndi zisanu ndi ziwiri, zatsimikizira kuti zokopa zokhazokha zikhoza kupangidwa ndi chilengedwe chokha. Tikamapanga fungo la duwa, timakondwera ndi fungo la zowonjezera 300, zomwe zili ndi violet, mandimu, anise, ndipo nthawi zina nthochi ndi vanila. Kupeza kumeneku kunapangitsa kuti mafuta onunkhira awonjezeke pamtunda watsopano. Mwachitsanzo, molekyu ndi fungo la udzu (wotchedwa coumarin wotchuka) nyemba zinalipo. Zipangizo zatsopano zimalola nyumba zopangidwa ndi mafuta onunkhira kuti zisamalipire ndalama zambiri: kilogalamu ya chilengedwe chachilengedwe cha jasmine yomwe imakula ku Grasse imatha pafupifupi 23,000 euro, ndipo kilo ya gedion (yotengedwa kuchokera ku zitsulo, yomwe ili makamaka ku Eau Sauvage, Dior) ndi 30 euro. Zotsatira zomwe anapeza zinapangitsa ochita kafukufuku kupanga zinthu zonunkhira kuchokera ku zipangizo zoyaka moto. Kodi wina angaganize kuti kuchokera mafuta kapena malasha mukhoza kubwezeretsanso zonunkhira ngati zonunkhira za maluwa, jasmine, hay, hyacinth komanso strawberries?
Kodi akazi akufuna chiyani?
Kusankha mafuta onunkhira, mkazi amafuna fungo labwino kuti afotokoze umunthu wake ndipo "kuyankhula" kumamangiriza kwa fano lake. Zosangalatsa za Kum'mawa, mwachitsanzo chitsanzo cha Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle. Dior, fotokozerani zamakhalidwe, zolakalaka komanso zokonzeka kuti azikonda mkazi wokondana. Zozizwitsa zimaperekedwa ndi zozizwitsa za "Oriental Gourmet" zomwe adazikonzanso mu 1992 ndi Angel ndi Therry Mugler, yemwe adakali olemekezeka a mafilimu odzipereka. Kusadzimva komanso chifundo kumasonyezedwa ndi kununkhira kwa kakombo Anais, Anais, Zakachari. Mafuta onunkhira ochokera ku Escada, ndithudi ine, ndiwopeka kwambiri kwa munthu wosadziŵika komanso wosangalala yemwe samasintha yekha. Mphuno yoyamba ya Herve Leger Femme kuchokera ku AVON ikukwaniritsa chithunzi cha mkazi wamalonda ndi wolimbikira ntchito. Koma kusewera ndi kugubuduza kumakhala mukupitiriza mndandanda wa "zosangalatsa" zochokera ku Estee Lauder. Mafuta okongola a zipatso zokongola Pleasures Bloom adzapereka chimwemwe cha masiku osasamala. Chabwino, potsiriza, mtsikana aliyense akulota chiyani? Inde, kuti mumve mawu okondedwa: "Tiyeni tikwatirane!". Malangizo kwa otsutsa a m'tsogolomu: kukondana komanso phokoso lokhalitsa la Wokwatirana nane kuchokera ku Lanvin, kudzakuthandizani kwambiri ngati mutasankha kupereka wokondedwa wanu.